Type: Sport, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: Mark Anderson
Page Views: 7,251 total · 68/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 24, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

The left half of the Wall of the '90s is capped by a complex of large, tiered roofs. Harlot braves the left side of this roof complex but skirts the final roof by following the obvious left-angling weakness. Hellcat is the proper directissima, tackling the final obstacle with a wild, pumpy, and exposed sequence that culminates in a huge throw to a jug at the lip. The largely stellar rock, sustained difficulty, and remarkable position make this mega line one of the best hard climbs in the canyon.

Approach by climbing any of the slab routes below the roof, to a hands-free stance at the Vixen anchor. Clear the initial 3-foot roof on large directional holds to a horizontal seam in the crook of the main roof. Tension-y moves lead out to a sloping fin and a contorted lip pull sequence. Technical, sequential liebacking leads to a strenuous rest stance below the final slanted ceiling. A big reach to a finger bucket in brilliant iron-hued stone sets up a make-or-break huck to the lip, followed by an easy mantel onto the hanging slab.

Location Suggest change

Climb out the big roof system on the left, slabby section of the Wall of the '90s, beginning from the Vixen anchor. Once in the white streaks above the biggest roof, move right to tackle the final slanted roof.

Protection Suggest change

9 bolts to 2 bolt anchor (not including the approach pitch).

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