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Hellbound Area
Routes Sorted
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Glass Onion S 
Hellbound for Glory S 
La hora brava T 
Luck of the Draw S 
Maximum Leader S 
Pulling on Porcelain S 
Voyeur Variation T 

Hellbound for Glory 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Doug Crosby, Jim Woodruff, 1990
Page Views: 1,095
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 6, 2010

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Description 

It's a shame that you can't access this wonderful face climb without doing the dirty start of The Frictional Heat Experiment. Despite this, it's worth it. Do it! Climb up the face to reach a small overhang and first bolt. Traverse out left to reach the crack in the overhang and traverse back right to reach the 2nd bolt. Move left long the horizontal crack to its end, clip the 3rd bolt and head straight up to reach a small overhang (crux). From here, head up the face, trending right for a bit, finding positive holds between thin moves. The route thins out around the last bolt, but positive holds will take you to the anchors.

Location 

From the Honeymooner's Ladders, head downstream. Pass the high concentration of 4 star 12's and 13's, staying close to the cliff. Pass Glass Onion, 5.10b and continue for another 40 feet. This climb begins in the dirty corner of The Frictional Heat Experiment, 5.10a and heads left on to the beautiful face as soon as possible.

Protection 

8 bolts, shuts.


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By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
May 5, 2015

I thought the zigzag crack start added excellent variety to the classic face above. There's a ton of climbing between the first and second bolts; it does add an unfortunate swing for the second, though.
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