It's a shame that you can't access this wonderful face climb without doing the dirty start of The Frictional Heat Experiment. Despite this, it's worth it. Do it! Climb up the face to reach a small overhang and first bolt. Traverse out left to reach the crack in the overhang and traverse back right to reach the 2nd bolt. Move left long the horizontal crack to its end, clip the 3rd bolt and head straight up to reach a small overhang (crux). From here, head up the face, trending right for a bit, finding positive holds between thin moves. The route thins out around the last bolt, but positive holds will take you to the anchors.
From the Honeymooner's Ladders, head downstream. Pass the high concentration of 4 star 12's and 13's, staying close to the cliff. Pass Glass Onion, 5.10b and continue for another 40 feet. This climb begins in the dirty corner of The Frictional Heat Experiment, 5.10a and heads left on to the beautiful face as soon as possible.
8 bolts, shuts.
|By Phil S|
From: Bethlehem, NH
Apr 27, 2011
I didn't think the start took away from the appeal of this route at all. It's a really fun line with a good balance of tech and power and a very unique crux section.
|By Fred Hamann|
Oct 9, 2011
Enjoyable, delicate, cerebral moves.
Alert--As of 10/08/2011, we found many of the bolts and nuts on HFG displayed profound rust, with additionally a mangled hangar on the 3rd (cruxy) bolt. The hangar looks as if it might have been bent and straightened several times over the years. You can place a small cam in a slot just below this bolt for additional security. Several other places along this route will also accept gear. Please take care. Fred Hamann.
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Oct 31, 2011
I also did not think that the start took anything away from the climb at all. Really fun undercling traverse with some handjams thrown in.
The conditions of the bolts are a huge drawback, though. Maybe I'm just getting overly fussy in my old age, but I was terrified of falling on some of the hardware, especially the 3rd bolts, which has a completely malformed, bent hanger. If the rebolting permit gets renewed with the NPS, this four star route should be first in line for glue-ins, it really is an amazing line.
As Fred says, I would highly recommend taking a few cams on this route, from finger sized to red camalot.
|By Sam Stephens|
Mar 12, 2012
This route was recently re-equipped with new glue ins. Thank you, whoever fixed this.