The Quarry Wall is highest point of the Necedah backbone. Because of it's height it is easily seen from the road and offers excellent views. Like the Y-Crack Wall, the Quarry Wall faces West.
Most of the climbing is found on the right side of the wall, with bolted lines in the 5.10-5.12 range. This part of the wall features perfect stone and blocky, intimidating, roofs. The slabbier and taller left side receives a bit less attention, but some good and deceptively hard bolted and gear climbs breach the wall.
All in all, the Quarry Wall is a perfect supplement to the more popular Y-Crack area.
Follow the descriptions to the Y-Crack wall, then continue along the fin of rock. When faced with the decision to go up or down, choose the higher option, as the right side of the Quarry wall starts off a ledge quite high above the road.
To access the left wall, scramble down from the raised ledge (4th class).
Self Mutilation climbs up to and around the right side of the big overhang. The 5.11+ version begins in a crack on the left to gain the roof. (Climbing the face/corner directly to the roof would definitely make the climb much harder, probably 5.12+.) Technical moves below the roof quickly give way to thuggery, as the climber strains to reach the anchors. You can see this line from the highway. ...[more]Browse More Classics in WI
You are about right for the grade on the far left bolted slab/sort of detached flake route (at top). I believe the rating is around mid 5.11. It is a burly move down low if I remember right. Don't know the name of this route either but would like to know some day???? The route that is next to the right is a good one too and I believe that it has been recently "updated" with a extra bolt added down low to protect the previously somewhat run out nature of the starting moves. This is a very nice steep and edgy route with tough moves near the top. I remember pulling a cool undercling move and making a desperate throw for a semi-jug to finish it off. Somewhere in the hard 5.10 range. Don't know the name of this one either and would like to.
Oh ya -- the bolted routes on the north end. Good routes too. Left one is hard 5.11 (maybe 5.11 b or c). Take a couple of small Tri-cams or Flex Cams to get good pro in the obvious horizontal for the crux move above. The holds are small but positive at the crux. It is hard to leave the security of the horizontal to make the crux moves above.The climb remains sustained above the bolt above the crux too but tops out pretty quickly afterwards. The right route is 5.12ish if you stay right on the bolt line and maybe mid to hard 5.10ish if you stay to the right of the bolt line down below (firt three bolts if I remeber right).I don't know the names of these two fine routes either so alot of help I am on that one! I would like to know the names myself!
The leftmost slab route on the hell wall is, in my opinion, a little top heavy on the grade. My friends and I know this route at the "One hit wonder" because the only move in the route that deserves a grade even close to 5.11 is the crux at the bottom. Because of this, I would give this route 5.10d at the most. The right-side slab route has a more sustained difficulty and should have a higher rating, even though none of the moves are as hard as the first move on "one hit".Peace, love, and 5.13's for everyone!
Can anyone tell me exactly where Jane and Dick goes (trad line between "Self Mutilation" and "Dick and Jeanie"? I see the main part, but does it finish up to the anchors on Self or Dick? Also, what is the grade?
By TravisMelin From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI Jun 21, 2009
john, Its been a while, but I am pretty sure the best place to end it is on the anchor of self mutilation. I think it was something like 5.9+ . A really fun route, go do it.