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Wrectum Wrecker 

Hell or High Water 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Kirk Brode - 2002
Page Views: 1,248
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 28, 2006
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leaving the prow

Description 

A great little route that packs a punch. A couple hundred yards past Superwave and the Wood Spirit tree and right of the huge roofs of Homeland Insecurity and Shadows. Begin immediately left of a large boulder leaning against the wall that forms a nice little shady alcove.

Step up at a wide crack/chimney and climb up and right across an unprotected face until it is possible to step onto the boulder. Continue up an easy ramp to a stance where good gear can be had. Climb up a nice finger crack in a right-facing corner to the obvious "ship's prow" flake that juts straight out of the wall below the roof. Hand traverse out the prow and pull through the roof systems above. A stance can be gained below a final overlap; pull through this up to a 15' stretch of face climbing past a lone bolt. Bolted anchors (but could use some quicklinks to replace the manky webbing).


Protection 

Standard rack. Long runners.



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By Wei-Ming
From: Atlanta, GA
Jan 26, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 

Route has quicklinks last I checked Jan 2014.

By 426
Mar 5, 2007

Anyone know what the wide roof crack/chimney just to the left of this route is?

By Rob Robinson
Oct 16, 2008

T Wall mega classic.

To answer the post above: that route is Belly Of The Beast (5.10)

See www.TennesseeWall.com

By 426
Nov 27, 2008

Thanks!

By T Rundle
From: Belltown
Jan 18, 2013

Easily one of the best climbs I did in the south.

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Jan 27, 2014

Alternatively, you can start on the face and climb up and left to the meat of the route. This would be a solid classic if the rock quality were a touch better.