A great little route that packs a punch. A couple hundred yards past Superwave and the Wood Spirit tree and right of the huge roofs of Homeland Insecurity and Shadows. Begin immediately left of a large boulder leaning against the wall that forms a nice little shady alcove.
Step up at a wide crack/chimney and climb up and right across an unprotected face until it is possible to step onto the boulder. Continue up an easy ramp to a stance where good gear can be had. Climb up a nice finger crack in a right-facing corner to the obvious "ship's prow" flake that juts straight out of the wall below the roof. Hand traverse out the prow and pull through the roof systems above. A stance can be gained below a final overlap; pull through this up to a 15' stretch of face climbing past a lone bolt. Bolted anchors (but could use some quicklinks to replace the manky webbing).
Standard rack. Long runners.
Mar 5, 2007
Anyone know what the wide roof crack/chimney just to the left of this route is?
Nov 27, 2008
|By T Rundle|
Jan 18, 2013
Easily one of the best climbs I did in the south.
|By Jeff Mekolites|
From: HOTlanta, GA
Jan 27, 2014
Alternatively, you can start on the face and climb up and left to the meat of the route. This would be a solid classic if the rock quality were a touch better.