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Hell Gates T 
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Hell Gates 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ed Ward Drummond, Hugh Drummond, 15/05/1965
Page Views: 127
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Sep 5, 2011

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Graeme part way along the P3 traverse


The route begins a few metres left of a prominent, left-leaning crack. Head towards an obvious cave about 65 feet up, best visible from the ground a little way back from the cliff. Pitches one and two are often run together - maybe a good idea to prevent a high-factor fall on the difficult moves out of the cave.

P1: From the start, climb up the face to meet the crack, below a steeper bulge. Pull through the bulge, past a thread to gain the cave, and belay here. Remember to take a pen to sign the visitor's book in the cave! A fixed piton in the cave is not to be trusted: it is very wobbly and the eye has rusted all the way through.

P2: Make some difficult moves out of the cave (crux) on quite polished rock and then up and slightly right on easier ground to a spacious belay ledge. Belay from a fixed 3-piton anchor. This is a potential escape point if you're climbing on a single 60m rope.

P3: Traverse left from the belay, past a fixed cam and two pitons, crossing the line of The Earl of Perth, until you see the anchor (a large metal plate bolted to the rock) above you. At this point, climb directly up to gain the anchor.


Start a few metres to the left of a prominent, left-leaning crack. Abseil from the top with two ropes, off a large metal plate bolted onto the rock. There is fixed gear at the top of P2, from which you could descend on a single 60m rope. Topping out on the suspension bridge is forbidden!


Nuts and larger gear up to 3". Tricams for the pockets. A few threads have been left in P1, and some pitons in P3. There is also fixed cam at the start of P3.

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