Hell Broke Luce
||Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 250', Grade III
|Consensus: ||A2+ [details]|
|FA: ||TDA & Durf|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||626|
|Submitted By: ||Stevie Nacho on Sep 3, 2012|
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Looking up after a piton broke and sent me for a 2...
PITCH ONE: After climbing the arching first pitch and a half of the Black Peeler Route, this climb exits the arch out a steep t.c.u crack. After a few small cams, clip a bolt and climb through the crux which is a delicate thin beak crack. After a knifeblade and some beaks (A2+) a bolt ladder takes you to a huge sloping ledge with a two bolt anchor.
PITCH TWO: Climb the left or right of twin splitters to a thin crack that traverses right (A1+) When the thin crack pinches off climb past two bolts to a reachy thin placement that leads into a short glorious thin splitter. The splitter leads to another sloping ledge. The anchor is right (east) of the splitter about twenty feet. Protect the seconding climber and walk up and right to the anchor. This anchor was put here to facilitate a rappel to the anchor on the Peeler Direct.
Between the Unknown A3 route and the second pitch of the Serpent. Rappel with one 60 meter rope to the chain anchor on the Peeler Direct route. One more rap to the ground is needed from there.
Cams to #3 camalot (3.5 camalot useful but not mandatory), #0-#3 metolius tcu's, thin knifeblades, #1, #2 angles, lost arrows (short/thin), four birdbeaks. Lots of runners to alleviate rope drag when exiting the Black Peeler route.
tasty splitter on the last pitch
the broken pin that sent for me for a digger.