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 ADVANCED
Industrial Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belly Up T 
Belly Up Variation T 
Blow Chow T 
Darker is Better T 
Fast Boat to China T 
Flight 67 to Stockholm S 
Forgotten Names S 
Heidi Hi T 
Industrial Disease aka Dead Moonies Don't Sell Flowers S,TR 
John Roskelly Show or Polyvinyl Chloride, The T 
Left-Hand Monkey Wrench T,TR 
Nipple Phyle T 
Noodle Factory T 
Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags T,S 
Salad Bar once known as "The John Roskelly Show" T,S,TR 
Scarlett's Pulse T 
Take Flight S 
Thunderbird aka Light Beer T 
Unknown 5.8 AKA Top Rope Face One T,TR 
What Would Jesus Bolt S 

Heidi Hi 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,207
Submitted By: Joseph Proulx on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Christa Cline stemming the initial corner of Heidi...

Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route starts at the same location as Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags, about 50' left of the painted 67. Climb up the right-facing dihedral as for PP&BB, but get onto the ledge to the left before you get to the first bolt. Then climb up a hand crack on a slightly overhanging face to a V-shaped slot and scramble up to the top.

The climbing is no harder than 5.8, but it's a bit tricky, and there aren't any rests above the ledge for a while, so gear-placement can be a bit tough. Not so good for top-roping, because the route wanders a bit and because it's a tough place to set up a good TR anchor. Nonetheless, the climbing is quite fun.

Protection 

Several medium cams (about #1 or #2 Camalots, maybe a bit smaller for the bottom). Larger nuts may work in places, but are tough to set well. Long slings - the route wanders. Maybe a cordalette to sling a boulder at the top.


Photos of Heidi Hi Slideshow Add Photo
Industrial Buttress - PPBB, <em>et al</em>.
BETA PHOTO: Industrial Buttress - PPBB, et al.
A fine climb on a Winter day.
A fine climb on a Winter day.
Christa Cline starting the steep upper crack.
Christa Cline starting the steep upper crack.
Heidi Hi, Politicians Priests and Body Bags, and Fast Boat to China.
BETA PHOTO: Heidi Hi, Politicians Priests and Body Bags, and F...
Christa Cline cranking the layback into the V-slot near the top of the pitch.
Christa Cline cranking the layback into the V-slot...
At the top of the first section.
At the top of the first section.

Comments on Heidi Hi Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 30, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A worthy Golden Cliffs trad route. Fun stems and jams up the initial corner, then a thin-hands crack and an airy layback into a V-slot.

Pro: Aliens to a #.75 Camalot; two or three #.75 Camalots to sew it up.

Belay from the top; go back and then right for the walk down.
By Sasha Richardson
Nov 10, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Don't be scared off if all you don't have many cams. I found that larger nuts were easy to place. I used a #2, #1 and #0.75 Camalot, but would not have needed that many cams if I had a double set of nuts.
By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Jan 16, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

There is now an independent bolted anchor for this route. I don't know the origin, but it certainly seems to be more environmentally responsible to rap off than to create more erosion by walking down.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Mar 1, 2013

There are two #1 Camalots stuck in the crack. You only need up to a #0.75 Camalot. The crux on this is only a few moves.