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> Store Skagastølstind
Heftyes Couloir
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 3.5 from 2
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Routes in Store Skagastølstind
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God Tid ("Good Time") T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Heftyes Couloir T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Johannes Th. Heftye 1880 |
| Page Views: | 1,043 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Kristian Starheim on Dec 16, 2014 |
| Admins: | Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan |
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Description
Approach the route through Skagadalen to the emergency shelter Skagastølsbu, up the scrambling-section at the south-face to the "Corner", a step at the south-east corner of Storen, just below the top crown (at 2310 meters). This approach can take between 5 and 10 hours, depending on weather and route-finding.
Traverse from the corner out to the "Galleries" in the east-wall. Exposed but easy climbing, 1-2 pitches (easy 5th).
Belay at ledge under a dihedral. This is Heftyes Couloir, and it is really more a tight squeeze of a dihedral. Crux is getting into the dihedral (5.4-5?). Climb the dihedral and belay on top of the dihedral.
Next pitch goes over 4rth/easy 5th terrain to a false summit. Belay on false summit. Last pitch goes over slabs to the top.
Descent: Rappell from false summit towards south-west. A fixed rappell anchor is found at an exposed stance at the edge of the south-wall. A 50meters free-hanging rappell takes you straight back to the Corner.
Several rappells can be used to take you over slabs. Or scramble down.
Traverse from the corner out to the "Galleries" in the east-wall. Exposed but easy climbing, 1-2 pitches (easy 5th).
Belay at ledge under a dihedral. This is Heftyes Couloir, and it is really more a tight squeeze of a dihedral. Crux is getting into the dihedral (5.4-5?). Climb the dihedral and belay on top of the dihedral.
Next pitch goes over 4rth/easy 5th terrain to a false summit. Belay on false summit. Last pitch goes over slabs to the top.
Descent: Rappell from false summit towards south-west. A fixed rappell anchor is found at an exposed stance at the edge of the south-wall. A 50meters free-hanging rappell takes you straight back to the Corner.
Several rappells can be used to take you over slabs. Or scramble down.
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