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Unsorted Routes:

Heel-A Monster 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Vincent Bates (Bolted by Vincent Bates and Luis Cisneros)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,951
Submitted By: Luis Cisneros on Jul 24, 2012
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Power of Heel-A
Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Great long route. Best rock quality at the Orifice Wall. Thin and acrobatic climbing, not as steep as the other hard climbs in this area, but still very steep for normal standards.

Very hard for about 40 feet (after the big black ledge) and then is sustained, and thought provoking, 11+/12- for a long ways.

ATTENTION!!!! LOWERING FALL HAZARD.
This route is very steep. When lowering from it, you need to clip your rope back to the draws in order to pull you in, or you will be stranded out in space away from the ledge.
THIS CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS.
Belayers PLEASE be aware of this and DO NOT DROP the climber.

#***************************************************************************************************************************************************#
#* TIE A STOPPER KNOT AT THE END OF THE ROPE TO AVOID IT FROM SLIPPING THROUGH YOUR BELAY DEVICE *#
#***************************************************************************************************************************************************#

A single 60mts rope will barely take you safely to the ledge. So IF CLIMBING WITH A 60MTS ROPE PLEASE BE EXTRA CAREFUL.

We found that clipping your rope to the chain draws right before the hard crux is sufficient.


Location 

Wall to the left of the main Orifice Wall.


Protection 

Chain draws



Photos of Heel-A Monster Slideshow Add Photo
crux
crux
A Monster Heel
A Monster Heel
Lower moves, about to start the hard section
Lower moves, about to start the hard section
jug haul for once
jug haul for once
Long and thin moves
Long and thin moves
Heel-A Monster!
BETA PHOTO: Heel-A Monster!
Not as slaby as it looks from bellow...
Not as slaby as it looks from bellow...
cherry-on-top move at the end of the awesome and very bouldery crux
cherry-on-top move at the end of the awesome and v...
navigating the groove moves
navigating the groove moves
middle section moves... getting into the crystal groove. Climbing is sustained from here, but not nearly as hard
middle section moves... getting into the crystal g...
crux moves
crux moves
hell yeah!
hell yeah!
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