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 ADVANCED
Beaver Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chains in the Grove [Var] S 
Climb With A View T 
Dead By 30 S 
Easy on the Beaver S 
Golden Beaver T 
Golden Beaver Left T 
Hebe S 
Hebe to CWAV [Var] S 
Highlander S 
Last Supper T 
Lessons In Yorkshire S 
Plate, The S 
Poplar Mechanics S 
Rage to Live S 
Right Tissue S 
Sparky Vision S 
Stems and Seeds T 
Trapeze T 
Trapezoid  S 
Vistacruiser T 
Zschiesche's Problem S 

Hebe 

YDS: 5.14- French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Dan Michael, 1991
Season: Winter
Page Views: 8,667
Submitted By: Luke Bertelsen on May 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Hans Florine on Hebe

Description 

Mt. Lemmon's hardest route to date. Has seen very few ascents despite a lot of attempts by some very talented climbers. A lot of very difficult and technical climbing packed into roughly 65-70ft.
Bring your power and your skin to play on this one. Best to work on when its nice and crisp or say goodbye to your fingertips.

Location 

On Beaver wall proper located between "Climb with a View/Trapezoid" and "Golden Beaver"

Protection 

8 bolts to chain anchors.


Photos of Hebe Slideshow Add Photo
Dan Michael on the FA of Hebe (5.14a), Mt. Lemmon. Photo by Peter Noebels.
Dan Michael on the FA of Hebe (5.14a), Mt. Lemmon....
Liam on Hebe
Liam on Hebe

Comments on Hebe Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 19, 2013
By Brent Silvester
May 12, 2008

Howdy. Was looking for a little history and opinions for this route. I've kicked around the idea of working on it, and was just wondering if anyone has been on it recently? Just looking for a little information before I cheese grate my finger tips into little nubs.

Thanks if advance.
By jbak
May 12, 2008

It has lots of history, a veritable saga of failure. Mike Head drilled it and attempted the FA but I believe could do no better than a 2-hang (which is still damn good). The FA by Dan Michael (probably the most honed climber I've ever seen) has to be a milestone in AZ climbing -- almost 20 years ago now. No local has succeeded including Scully and Miles Kunkel although I saw Miles one-hang it. Only 3 redpoints total and only 1 by an Arizonan -- Greg Varela of Phoenix. I watched one of his attempts and was blown away by his ability to get recovery shakes in places I could barely hold on. Hans Florine used to stop by regularly to get shut down by it.

Scully once said it was the best route on Mt. Lemmon. I know Miles had a very high opinion of it too. It has at least one chipped hold if that bothers you. It is not that sharp IIRC, most holds are half to full pad.
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 12, 2008

Hey Jbak, I thought it was Ray Ringle and Dan Michael that created this route? Dan did the FA. I know that he and Ray created F... Me Pumps which has never seen an FA. I think Hans had fifty some attempts on this route.
By jbak
May 12, 2008

Eric I'm pretty sure Mike did the drilling and went for the FA. Ray was involved, perhaps equally. I think Mike turned it over after he gave it his best shot. I talked to Mike about it not long ago so this is a fairly recent memory. But my brain can be pretty foggy.
By Brent Silvester
May 13, 2008

Well thanks guys. Looks like it might be a nice late afternoon project, and a good one to train on. And being right next to the Golden Beaver, double trouble. . .

As for chipping holds, it blows my mind. But, you can't change the past. Hopefully future generations will co-exist with the rock in a little friendlier manner. Of course I am saying this before I get on the route. The chipped holds might come in handy during red-point attempts.

Thanks Again
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jan 28, 2009

According to "Wizards of Rock" by Pat Ament, Dan Michael made the FA in 1990. This would make Hebe one of the first 5.14s in the country (assuming the grade is solid).

Also according to the same source, Merril Bitter sent Hebe in May 1998, at age 45.
By Hans Florine
Jan 29, 2009

This is my favorite route in the world that I never red-pointed. (Yet)

You can put the "-" behind the "5.14", but I think it IS a 5.14.

I remember when Bitter got his ascent, I tracked him down and called him and congratulated him. Fricken awesome send at any age. Whoa this might be serendipity, I'm turning 45 this year, maybe I am experienced enough now to send it!

I found the best temperature on this route was about 61 degrees. Not to hot to melt your fingers and not too cold to cramp you up between goes.

Best of luck with this one. Speed be with you.
By dkirk
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 12, 2009

Hi Everyone,

I just started working on this route today (4/12/09) and left some draws on bolts 1-5, I believe. I was using these draws as directionals (was working on top-rope) and will be leaving them for this purpose, for the time being. Please do not use them for leading up the climb as weather and sun may make them unable to hold a fall any longer. If I start leading this climb, I will replace the draws with other ones and take them down on a daily basis.

Thanks a lot.
By jbak
Apr 21, 2009

That you danny ?...we were talkin about Hebe in the gym ?

Don't worry too much about weather exposure on draws. It takes many months for it to become a problem. When the draws get stiff and crusty, then you can worry.
By Daniel Kirk
Apr 21, 2009

Hi John, yup this is Danny. Thanks for the info on the draws. My newness to the sport is showing quite well and it won't be the last time.
By dkirk
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 19, 2009

Hi everyone, was talking over the idea, with a climbing partner, of putting some fixed draws (specifically quick draws with a quick link to the bolt) on this climb for the winter. There are a couple of us working the climb, on weekly basis, and this would make things easier. Just wanted to see if anyone was opposed with the idea before I do this.
By Matt Fowls
From: Tucson, Arizona
Nov 24, 2009

DO IT!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 24, 2009

DON'T DO IT!
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 25, 2009

MAYBE DO IT!
By dkirk
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 28, 2009

After setting up a TR on this climb TONS of times in the past few months, I have decided that I can be a little less lazy and not leave fixed draws on the climb. Thanks for the input everyone!
By Sir Faps
Jan 18, 2010

hahaha danny u WOULD try to redpoint this crazy ass route! this is adam by the way ill TR this with u any day of the week budday! ;)
By Hans Florine
Jan 28, 2010

I remember that the rappeling crowd was regularly visiting the Beaver Wall and it would be highly likely that they would come upon fixed draws and the draws would magically not be fixed and end up with the rappelers. TOO easy for anyone to rappel over this route, if you are on a budget, don't leave gear on the route.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 11, 2010

Hebe, pronounced he be, goddess of youth and the daughter of Hera and Zues.
By Wes Turner
From: az
Jul 13, 2010

wow. Hans Florine commented. Thats cool. :D
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 22, 2012

The 4th ascent has been accomplished! Congratulations to Alex Kirkpatrick on the redpoint.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Oct 22, 2012

Damn, nice work Alex!
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 31, 2012

Congrats Alex!!!
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jul 26, 2013

Dan Michael succeeded on the first ascent after weeks of work in winter 1991. He graded it 5.13c/d at the time!
By Mr. Nick
Nov 19, 2013

Wow. For such a magnificent-looking route I would have assumed it to have more recorded ascents. Could this be due to a lack of suitors? From the look of it - and from the fact that Hans Florine totally commented - it seems that this route deserves much more attention. I would be thankful to have a chance at getting utterly beat down on this thing when I am out there this coming spring.