Heavy Weather 5.12a/b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | Bob D'Antonio |
| Submitted By: | Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001 |
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Bob D on the FA.
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Description Beautiful line up the left side of Surreal Estate Wall (the third big clean wall reached from the standard North side approach). Belayer relaxes on inclined rock as the leader tackles the continual cruxes. A few shakeouts can be found and will certainly help. The first crux pulls through on pockets, a mid bouldery crux pulls edges before reaching a final overlap and the third major crux overlap. Sequential, pumpy and awesome!
Protection 10 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.
Heading up a sea of crimps and pockets, trying to ...
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| Comments on Heavy Weather |
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By Anonymous Coward
Dec 26, 2001
| One of my favorite routes at Shelf. Very sustained and sequential.I don't think there is a move of 5.12 on it but 90% of it is in the 11c/d range and the moves are not real obvious on the on-sight.Clipping stratagy is crucial. |
By Joe Collins
Oct 27, 2003
rating: 5.12a
| Awesome route. This climb reminds me of Hot Bitch on the Beach at Cactus Cliff... no real stopper crux but lots of 11+ climbing. Shorter climbers may find the middle crux to be pretty reachy. |
By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Dec 31, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b
| Very continuous at the grade with few good rests. Doesn't really let up until you clip the chains. Quite a bit harder than its neighbor Unusual Weather. Quality climb. |
By Jay Park
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2008
rating: 5.12a/b
| One of my favorite routes at Shelf, as well. One of the most consistent route for the grade at Shelf, in my opinion. At 5'8" with normal ape index, I found crux moves a little reachy, but doable if I knew where to go for. Definitely difficult to on-sight if you are pushing the grade. The last crux move is pretty awesome and desperate, if you are pumped, so rest well before. |
By Tom Hanson
Oct 15, 2008
| Reminiscent of Pay Homage at Castlewood, though a touch easier. |
By Kai Huang
From: Thornton, CO
Apr 26, 2009
| 11 bolts to 2 biners anchor. |
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage
May 14, 2009
| I onsighted both about 15 years ago and would say that Heavy Weather is slightly harder. Both have an obvious reachy crux, but Heavy weather is more sequential and does not have the rest that Pay Homage has. But then again, I also onsighted McFly .12d and Suedehead .12d at Shelf Road and think McFly was a little harder, due to it not being "my style". |
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.12a
| Probably the best .12 I've done at Shelf, ultra-classic! |
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 25, 2012
| This route is amazing! I have done a lot of routes at Shelf, and this could potentially be the best I have done. In a nutshell, it's absolutely perfect pocket pulling on bullet hard, perfect stone for 75 feet with sequential, cool, lockoffy type moves. Freakin' amazing!!! Do it.... |
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