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Heavy Weather Sailing 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: steve larson
Page Views: 588
Submitted By: john strand on Mar 16, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

Well, I am surprised no one have posted up this classic. An absolute kicker climb. Powerful and technical.


Location 

Above the ramp on Standard Route is an obvious big overhanging flake. Hard underclings and a very tough move at the end. From atop p1 a thin crack goes to the top.

Tom Callaghan's legendary Gale Force 10+ XX is the left hand finish.


Protection 

small and big



Comments on Heavy Weather Sailing Add Comment
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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Mar 23, 2010

John, I've had friends get on this and describe the rock as less than awesome. How hard do you think it is to get established in the flake proper after the underclinging part?

By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 23, 2010

It's not the best but pretty decent I think. The undercling is pretty hard and the exit move in my mind is the crux. It's a long reach to a fair jam
I think it's just awesome