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 ADVANCED
Trojan Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete of Troy 
Big Deal 
Big Traffic 
Devils, The 
Easy traverse 
Edges Of Doom 
Heavy Traffic 
Old Soft Hsu 
Steve's Traverse 
Trojan Arete, The 
Troy Lite 
Unsorted Routes:

Heavy Traffic 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 822
Submitted By: Joe Stern on Jul 11, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Mary Patterson shows everyone how it's done.

Description 

Follow the striking line of pockets and holes up and left.

I start with my right hand in a good pocket and left on a higher positive edge. Other options exist, including a lower start. Climb through the two big holes and then stay focused on the crux top out.

There's a direct start on crimps to the left, V4.


Location 

Left side of the Trojan Boulder's east face. Right next to the road and just right of the Trojan Arete.

Protection 

Crash pad, traffic controller.


Photos of Heavy Traffic Slideshow Add Photo
East Face of Trojan Boulder.
East Face of Trojan Boulder.
Trojan Boulder, east face
Trojan Boulder, east face
Myself on Heavy Traffic
Myself on Heavy Traffic

Comments on Heavy Traffic Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Sep 5, 2011
rating: V3 6A

I find it easier to start with right hand in lower pocket at chest height, and left hand on the chest height crimp out left, rather than a hands above the head start... it feels smoother moving into the higher holds rather than a strong overhand crank to begin with. It makes the footwork smoother I think. I was scared for a long time about the fall from a failed topout. This boulder is a good one to learn how to fall on, as it is actually not a bad fall if you have a good pad (or 2) and a spotter.
By Will Barnes
From: Edmonton, AB
Feb 24, 2013

We did a fun little problem just to the left of Heavy Traffic today. Start on a couple edges low and to the right of the sit start to Trojan Arete, head straight up through some small slopey crimps and edges and link up with heavy traffic at the big jug. Nice little techy problem.

If you're feeling spicy do the eliminate by not using any holds on H.T. and go straight up. The holds are all there, just going to take some commitment. Contrived maybe but a sweet line.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 24, 2013

Yeah, those little "contrivances" have been done since the 80's. I remember Joel (long-haired variety) showing me his circuit on that face ten years ago.
By ebanich
Nov 29, 2014

FA Doug Hsu early 70s I think.