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Heaven's Gate 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tony Calderone, 1990's
New Route: Yes
Season: Anytime when dry
Page Views: 590
Submitted By: James Garrett on Oct 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Heaven's Gate P1

The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route branches off near the top of Callitwhatyouplease and keeps on going. TC's rating these spicy slab moves only 5.8 is either testament to his slab skills or my lack thereof. With that said, this is fun and challenging LCC slab climbing. Perhaps others have wondered what this climb was in this popular area. Worth doing.

Pitch #1: Climb Callitwhatyouplease and just before the anchor, veer off left (west) up steep slab speckled with sparse chickenheads and belay at a two-bolt belay. 5.8/9, 30m.

Pitch #2: Continue straight up into runout terrain passing some great classic knobs and a broken up section to a two-bolt belay. 5.8+, 20m.

Pitch #3: Again, climb straight up and avoid rope drag with placements until reaching some "thank god" bolts that intersect a smooth slab with mostly tiny chickenheads on very good granite. Pass some horizontal placements and cool moves to the end of the slab. 5.10?, 35m.

From here, we traversed left and continued up a slender fin. These upper pitches may be a part of another route, but the 3rd bolt up a fin of a slab was distinguished by an older Metolius Rap Hanger with a new SS bolt. Bold and stout. 5.10ish,

Location 

We rapped numerous new rappel stations and eventually passing The Hook and Bushwhack with a 70m rope.

If this climbs sees a bit more traffic, the "new route" grittiness will resolve itself.

Protection 

Set of Camalots, especially smaller sizes and QDs


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Heaven's Gate P2
BETA PHOTO: Heaven's Gate P2

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