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Talus Food S,TR 

Heaven's Gate 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tony Calderone, 1990's
New Route: Yes
Season: Anytime when dry
Page Views: 1,163
Submitted By: James Garrett on Oct 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route branches off near the top of Callitwhatyouplease and keeps on going. TC's rating these spicy slab moves only 5.8 is either testament to his slab skills or my lack thereof. With that said, this is fun and challenging LCC slab climbing. Perhaps others have wondered what this climb was in this popular area. Worth doing.

Pitch #1: Climb Callitwhatyouplease and just before the anchor, veer off left (west) up steep slab speckled with sparse chickenheads and belay at a two-bolt belay. 5.8/9, 30m.

Pitch #2: Continue straight up into runout terrain passing some great classic knobs and a broken up section to a two-bolt belay. 5.8+, 20m.

Pitch #3: Again, climb straight up and avoid rope drag with placements until reaching some "thank god" bolts that intersect a smooth slab with mostly tiny chickenheads on very good granite. Pass some horizontal placements and cool moves to the end of the slab. 5.10?, 35m.

From here, we traversed left and continued up a slender fin. These upper pitches may be a part of another route, but the 3rd bolt up a fin of a slab was distinguished by an older Metolius Rap Hanger with a new SS bolt. Bold and stout. 5.10ish,

Location 

We rapped numerous new rappel stations and eventually passing The Hook and Bushwhack with a 70m rope.

If this climbs sees a bit more traffic, the "new route" grittiness will resolve itself.

Protection 

Set of Camalots, especially smaller sizes and QDs


Comments on Heaven's Gate Add Comment
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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 16, 2015

SPAM! After leaving Rakkup stickers on all the cars at the Gate you're coming HERE to promote YOUR e-guidebook? How about disclosing your financial interests in this, along with a disclaimer about the profound bias in your opinion...

Edit: to clarify, this was Tony's original comment which he later edited. Looks like the line even sprouted a new pitch!

Oh what would he do if he couldn't go back in time...
Oh what would he do if he couldn't go back in time...
By LCC-Climber
May 18, 2015

word
By Tofu Brain
May 18, 2015

I wouldn't wipe my ass with that LCC guide, guess the author needs money to be able to buy a few more Silver Stars to pin on his jacket?
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