Tucked away south of Elevenmile Canyon proper, Heaven's Gate will make a sport climber's dreams come true. This secluded and uncrowded area is all sport climbing on solid, overhanging granite, with awesome patinas, slopers, and beautiful crimps. Plus, the approaches are no longer than 10 minutes. Heaven's Gate became a reality after Nathan and Lauren Hollingsworth discovered it with Ben Schmitt, Brian Rhodes, Scott Hahn, Perri Rothweiler, and Logan Davis developing this crag heavily over the summer of 2010.
You will find no trouble camping here with no fees or access issues. Most routes have chain anchors with fairly optimal belaying. Classic routes are Intercontinental, Shotgun Pinata, and Fight or Flight to name a few. For the ambitious type, there are plenty of sweet open projects and bouldering here to be sent so get on it quick!!
And on your way out don't forget to grab a Flow-storm or a Mountain Burger at the small gas station (the one with the "Beer Store" sign). Finally, with Ben's permission, I provide this data, so ALL credit goes to him and the folks aforementioned and his new book -- Eleven Miles to Freedom: The Rock Climber's Guide to Elevenmile Canyon. If you want one, send him your address and a check (made out to Blue Mountain Climbing, LLC) for $24 (for shipping and handling) to:
Ben Schmitt 4130 Three Graces Dr Colorado Springs, CO 80904
The following is verbatim from Ben's book: Take Co Rd 96 out of Lake George (which turns into FS 244 past the fork which leads to entrance of the main canyon), all the way around Blue Mountain where it rejoins Co Rd 98 at a large fork. Continue up the small hill, and turn right at the white sign labeled "Circle C Ranch", and take the right fork onto FS 244 (the left fork leads to the Circle C Ranch). Follow this for 0.4 miles, cross a seasonal puddle, and turn left immediately after that onto FS 244A for 0.2 miles, through a meadow where the road splits for 40 feet then rejoins, and turn left on FS 244B. Continue up the fill for 0.5 miles to where the road dead ends at a cul-de-sac and the parking for the crags.
Note: you will want to take a vehicle with high clearance.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Heaven's Gate:
This stellar line takes the center of the detached pillar forming a small cave on the left side of the cliff. This short but truly beautiful line incorporates a variety of technical moves on bullet hard stone. It is very photogenic and sustained the entire way. This route was originally given 5.10c, but it feels a little softer than that, so tell me if I am wrong. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO