Heaven's a Lie 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Marc Hansen |
| Season: | winter |
| Submitted By: | Marius vanderMerwe on Jul 1, 2010 |
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Cougar Cliffs are located in the Red Cliffs Desert Reserve, and managed by Snow Canyon S.P. MORE INFO >>>
Restrictions on route development, off-trail access, and appropriate use are the same as are in the State Park. Pets on leash, don't smash the wildlife and flora, etc.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is the bolted line to the left of Forsaken (5.11a). Like Forsaken, it can be done in one pitch, in which case a 70 m rope will be needed to lower the leader from the top anchor. Alternatively, fixed anchors on a large ledge halfway up can be used to divide the climb into 2 pitches.
The climb starts on an easy but fun face with varnished holds. The crux is gaining access to a thin crimpy face via some surprisingly awkward moves. The top of the climb is overhanging but with large holds.
Location This is one of 2 excellent sport routes on the imposing cliff face right below the rapellers favorite anchoring spot (this would be the cliff face closest to the parking area along Hwy 18). From the parking area walk towards the right where there is a faint trail and a class 4 scramble to the bottom of the routes.
Protection Bolted all the way.
| Comments on Heaven's a Lie |
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By Nathan Marsh
From: st. george utah
Nov 18, 2012
rating: 5.11c PG13
| i liked this route. i thought the crux section was great and wished it was longer. very sequential, but once you figure it out, its not too bad. I will say i climbed the whole route and felt that the top was not really worth climbing, i would just climb to the first anchors and finish there. although the top does give a completely distinct type of climbing, so it makes it feel like two completely different routes, which can be fun. i gave the route a pg13 rating because the 2nd clip after the first anchor has the potential to deck on the shelf if you fall. I also found it to be an awkward clip, which could lead to a lot of falls. |
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