Heavenly Journey  5.10b X

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet FA:  Billy Westbay Submitted By:  Nate A on Jul 25, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Moving right out of this crack is the P1 crux.

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The quintessential runout face climb on Lumpy Ridge. Begin in the obvious crack system approx. 20' left of the big left facing dihedral on the right side of the Pear, look for the 2 bolt and chain anchor on the top of the 1st pitch [new 3/8 in, 2003]. Pitch #1: Climb the flared crack to its end step right to a hanging flake, then work up and left to the anchor. Pitch #2: Head straight up from the belay, hard moves at first, then sustained 5.8/5.9 for approx. 120' (no pro) to a belay just above a bulge at a crack system. Leaders in the past have clipped bolts on weight loss clinic to the [left], but be advised these are old. Apparently, this pitch also had a fixed pin that was snapped in a large leader fall. Traverse off to the right, easy, and descend.

Protection 

Rack to a #2 Camalot, with RPs for 1st pitch.