Heaven  V8

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Type:  Boulder, 15 feet Consensus:  V8 [details] FA:  Matt Olson? Submitted By:  skinny legs and all on Jan 23, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Heaven climbs the striking seam on the Shamoo boulder. A longtime project due to its location and just beg to be climbed line.

Begin by pulling onto the wall with a miserable opening in the hairline seam with your left hand and right on a tiny (1/4") crimp). Cam the right foot into the bottom, wide part of the crack. Lean left and reach high to hook your right middle finger into the mono. This hold is not so much of a mono as a tooth for one finger. Left foot on the most miserable footholds imaginable. Stand onto it and reach high left hand to where the crack offsets. Begin strenuous, delicate laybacking to the topout.

The mono is notorious for injuring fingers, and I worry that if my left foot would skate off the smear, One may lose the finger. Do not let this scare you away from the problem. The tweakiness can be mitigated by listening to your body. I have seen this climb flashed.

Location 

Center of Shamoo Boulder

Protection 

A pad or two and a spotter.