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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Unsorted Routes:

Heaven Can Wait 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kevin McLaughlin, Sam Mills, 4/88
Page Views: 759
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Oct 26, 2006
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D's Nutz in the middle of the crack.

Description 

This is a great trad route, but have your S together before you go for the lead. It is mostly slab moves, protected with gear.


Location 

This lies among the popular slab routes at the end of the main canyon.


Protection 

Thin gear.



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By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 22, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

We top roped this climb from Children since we didn't have any trad gear. Tricky start and finish

By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Sep 27, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

This is the thin seam between Jewel of the Mild and Children of a Lesser Grade and can be TRed from Children's anchors which is what most people do. Personally, I thought the start was way harder than 10b. Maybe something important broke off?

By Brent Butler
From: Del Norte, CO
May 15, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R

Beta spray warning: The crux at the bottom is very difficult for 10+, but then after about 10 ft, it is maybe 9- climbing to the anchors. The top protection is far from great. After the pod at mid route that will take an ok cam, all I found was very small but textbook RP placement and then a terrible mid-sized stopper for 2nd half of the route. I would suggest hopeful on-sighters be solid at scary 5.9 slab.

By Kenan
Nov 27, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R

I agree with a previous comment that something must have broken off if this was once a 5.10 start. The start is quite bouldery and requires technical stemming out on thin pebbles to reach the left hand hold. Then pulling over the bulge and getting the right-hand gaston is also no gimme. Solid 5.11 start. The 10c to the left (Children of a Lesser Grade) is much easier.

Also note this is definitely an R-rated climb if you lead it on gear. There are maybe 2-3 placements in the middle of the climb and that's it!