Heaven Can Wait
|684 page views|
Good page? (1 like)
D's Nutz in the middle of the crack.
This is a great trad route, but have your S together before you go for the lead. It is mostly slab moves, protected with gear.
This lies among the popular slab routes at the end of the main canyon.
|Comments on Heaven Can Wait
|By Dean Cool|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 22, 2007
We top roped this climb from Children since we didn't have any trad gear. Tricky start and finish
|By Jesse Morehouse|
Sep 27, 2008
This is the thin seam between Jewel of the Mild and Children of a Lesser Grade and can be TRed from Children's anchors which is what most people do. Personally, I thought the start was way harder than 10b. Maybe something important broke off?
|By Brent Butler|
From: Del Norte, CO
May 15, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c R
Beta spray warning: The crux at the bottom is very difficult for 10+, but then after about 10 ft, it is maybe 9- climbing to the anchors. The top protection is far from great. After the pod at mid route that will take an ok cam, all I found was very small but textbook RP placement and then a terrible mid-sized stopper for 2nd half of the route. I would suggest hopeful on-sighters be solid at scary 5.9 slab.
Nov 27, 2012
rating: 5.11a R
I agree with a previous comment that something must have broken off if this was once a 5.10 start. The start is quite bouldery and requires technical stemming out on thin pebbles to reach the left hand hold. Then pulling over the bulge and getting the right-hand gaston is also no gimme. Solid 5.11 start. The 10c to the left (Children of a Lesser Grade) is much easier.
Also note this is definitely an R-rated climb if you lead it on gear. There are maybe 2-3 placements in the middle of the climb and that's it!