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Routes in Ridge 2
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Arete Funicello S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bladerunner S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dixie Rising T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Dry Heave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Haul Off and Heave T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Heave Ho T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Krack-a-Toe-ah (submitted as Safecracker) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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LIPSTICK S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mouth of the South T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Move Like a Stud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slab Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slab Right S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sleeping Digit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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South of the Mouth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sportin' a Woodie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | D. Fortner & T. Collins, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 665 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Sep 11, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
This climb is perhaps 100m up the hill from the 'Move Like A Stud' area. It is a huge, red, right-facing, dihedral that starts small but gets big. Although it is attractive from a distance, the rock quality on the bottom 2/3 leaves something to be desired.
Start at a crack with some lichen and some questionable rock. Climb up through improving conditions to reach the bottom of the massive hanging dihedral. Start placing gear and continue climbing up. About 5m from the top, the rock becomes very solid and less featured. Place a few pieces and execute a 5.9 crux to topout. A trad anchor can be set at the top of medium to large stoppers and small to medium cams.
Descend as for other area routes, via the 4th class descent or rap the station above 'Move Like A Stud.'
Start at a crack with some lichen and some questionable rock. Climb up through improving conditions to reach the bottom of the massive hanging dihedral. Start placing gear and continue climbing up. About 5m from the top, the rock becomes very solid and less featured. Place a few pieces and execute a 5.9 crux to topout. A trad anchor can be set at the top of medium to large stoppers and small to medium cams.
Descend as for other area routes, via the 4th class descent or rap the station above 'Move Like A Stud.'
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