|Type:||Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 290'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||1979 Jim Anglin|
|Submitted By:||peachy spohn on Dec 3, 2008|
|Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Heathen's Highway||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Bend, Or.
Jan 26, 2011
Did the Zig Zag pitch today (#2), and had a lot of fun on it. The moves are nice, and nothing came loose, but the bolts are sketchy thin, and the last one, before the anchors needs to be screwed back inů.
I'll bring a wrench next time I'm up there...
Apr 29, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Did the whole thing yesterday. We started on Nightingales on Vacation then did the traversy pitch of Heatens. The bolt spacing felt more or less alright to me. I think in the future I would skip the traverse pitch and do Via Dolorosa instead. The 3rd pitch was a little shitty and a tiny bit loose, but still fun. The climbing felt comparable to Lion's Jaw in both difficulty and the style of movement. That said there is still some junk in the crack so you want someone comfortable with 5.8 trad on that pitch. Also avoid the grapefruit-sized knob, it's loose.
The summit view is awesome!
There were anchors with rap rings pretty much everywhere. The book recommends going to the Cinnamon Slab anchors, don't know how you would get there. It looks like you could do a small single rope rappel and then a double rope rappel back onto the front that would be climber's right of testament slab. We did two single raps to get to a ridge on the backside and then hiked to some anchors that I think were for Deep Splash.
By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Aug 9, 2013
|Lots of bolts swinging on the zig zag pitch as of 8/9/2013 and the last one is so far out that it would be a miracle if it actually held a fall...|