Heathen's Highway 5.10a PG13
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 290 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | 1979 Jim Anglin |
| Submitted By: | peachy spohn on Dec 3, 2008 |
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Description I approached the route via 'Barbecue the Pope' but there are many options to gain access to the first pitch on top of the Testament Slab (at its very apex).
From here ascend a face with numerous pockets that are fun and quite juggy. Move right for four bolts and then back left and up to the anchors. The rock is fairly solid through this pitch and is the best pitch of Heathen's Highway.
For the next pitch traverse right and up into a crack. This pitch would be cool if climbed more, but is very loose and dirty (and is one reason for the pg-13 grade I gave it). On top of this crack is a small chimney that leads to an anchor on the left side of the corridor.
Pitch 4 climbs a very loose slab to the summit of the Friar and has one new bolt and a few old homemade bolts (the other reason for the pg-13).
All in all, if the route had better quality rock up higher it would be very fun and safe, but with the looseness it only deserves 2 stars.
Descend near the summit of the Friar and onto its east side. Go into the 'Hobbit Hole' and scramble out of it and over to a rappel that takes you down just opposite of the 'Go Dog Go' tower.
Location The Christian Brothers. Climbs to the summit of the Friar.
Protection Pitches 1 & 2 are bolted. Pitch 3 is trad. Pitch 4 is bolted.
| Comments on Heathen's Highway |
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By BSwett
From: Bend, Or.
Jan 26, 2011
| Did the Zig Zag pitch today (#2), and had a lot of fun on it. The moves are nice, and nothing came loose, but the bolts are sketchy thin, and the last one, before the anchors needs to be screwed back in….
I'll bring a wrench next time I'm up there... |
By benberry
Apr 29, 2012
rating: 5.10a PG13
| Did the whole thing yesterday. We started on Nightingales on Vacation then did the traversy pitch of Heatens. The bolt spacing felt more or less alright to me. I think in the future I would skip the traverse pitch and do Via Dolorosa instead. The 3rd pitch was a little shitty and a tiny bit loose, but still fun. The climbing felt comparable to Lion's Jaw in both difficulty and the style of movement. That said there is still some junk in the crack so you want someone comfortable with 5.8 trad on that pitch. Also avoid the grapefruit-sized knob, it's loose.
The summit view is awesome!
There were anchors with rap rings pretty much everywhere. The book recommends going to the Cinnamon Slab anchors, don't know how you would get there. It looks like you could do a small single rope rappel and then a double rope rappel back onto the front that would be climber's right of testament slab. We did two single raps to get to a ridge on the backside and then hiked to some anchors that I think were for Deep Splash. |
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