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Devil's Den
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Easier Said Than Done T 
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Heat Wave 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,714
Submitted By: lee hansche on Nov 10, 2009

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Heat Wave Low Start

Description 

Near the left end of the cliff you cant miss this perfect left leaning crack coming out of a small cave. If you start down in the cave it's more like 5.12 and called Maximum Heat. For a challenging 5.11 (the way it's most often done)start off the rock and lean out for your first jams. Follow the crack system up and left to a mellow finish and a tree anchor.

I found the crux to be the first 2/3 of the steep climbing haha. really pumpy and sustained, by the time it lets up and you get a few good jams it feels just as hard due to exaustion. the upper 20-30 feet are mellow 5.7ish climbing thank god haha. a great route with good protection. do it.
It's steep, hard, funky and beautiful.


Location 

Near the left end of Devils Den, you will see this amazing line leaning left and beckoning...


Protection 

Regular rack. anchor to trees



Photos of Heat Wave Slideshow Add Photo
me working hard on this unforgiving route
me working hard on this unforgiving route
a better overview of the route
BETA PHOTO: a better overview of the route
one of the multiple hangs i took on this go...
one of the multiple hangs i took on this go...
Nick on the upper crux of this great climb..
Nick on the upper crux of this great climb..
Comments on Heat Wave Add Comment
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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Mar 18, 2010

Good tree up top, I may have a rap anchor there from years past. A fun .10 to the left of heatwave.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 21, 2010

got back on it and did it to the top... with a whip and some hangs... a great proj for me... sooooo hard

By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Dec 24, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Haven't gotten on this yet, but I checked it out recently and it looks absolutely amazing.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 28, 2010

yeah, ive yet to get back on it but its often on my mind...

By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Mar 25, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Shocked myself by onsighting this yesterday starting off the block (which I'd recommend since you can place a piece of the ground to avoid cratering into the boulder). I placed a handsized power cam off the ground and carried doubles from green - gold camalot and one blue, plus a few nuts since I didn't know what the upper slab would hold. This seemed about right. There are two bomber trees at the top but no rap slings.

The climbing is absolutely STELLAR. It blows me away that people walk by such a great route. Great locks the whole way if you can find them. It gets more into hands the higher you get and there are some savior feet on the face. Several times I was able to cross through bad thin hands/rattly finger jams to reach a good lock. It's steep and you really have to just plug and go to avoid pumping out.

Off the block, it's apparently straight 5.11 which seemed a little sandbagged. People who climb wayyy harder than me have called it solid .12a, so I'll split difference and call it .11+. Either way, follow Lee's advice and get on the thing! One of the best cracks I've done.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 25, 2012

great work Matt! proud send!

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Mar 27, 2012

nice matty, good seeing you the other day.

By Noodle
Jun 18, 2012

Me and a friend tried setting up a TR on this today but instead climbed the crack straight up. Any info on this, felt pretty rough but not quite 11.c. Also I left a cord and two lockers on the tree since I'll be heading back soon, so nows a good time to get on it! The crack that heads straight up into the finish was a last as well.

By Jeremy A
From: NH
Jun 19, 2012

Homebase .10b..added to the routes. Nice job on the send. :)