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Heat Seeking Moisture Missle
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.4 from 5
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Routes in Moses Springs Wall
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Heat Seeking Moisture Missle S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | John Barbella and James McConachie 2/1984 |
| Page Views: | 1,674 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Nov 24, 2009 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Description
This route has difficult moves surmounting each of the three bulges that it passes through in the lower half. The upper face is run-out but quite a bit easier than down low. Each of the bulges has reachy moves and if you are shorter than about 5' 6" you may not like this route much.
Scamper up into the first scoop and clip the first bolt. Move up and to the right to the second bolt, after clipping this you may want to un-clip the first to limit rope drag. Mantle over the first bulge and stand up below the second. Pull over the second after clipping another bolt on mostly good holds. Spend some time figuring out what to do at the third and crux bulge with difficult moves along the lip. Wander up the face above clipping 2 more bolts along the way. Finish up along a crumbling flake and at anchors right at the rim.
Scamper up into the first scoop and clip the first bolt. Move up and to the right to the second bolt, after clipping this you may want to un-clip the first to limit rope drag. Mantle over the first bulge and stand up below the second. Pull over the second after clipping another bolt on mostly good holds. Spend some time figuring out what to do at the third and crux bulge with difficult moves along the lip. Wander up the face above clipping 2 more bolts along the way. Finish up along a crumbling flake and at anchors right at the rim.
Location
As you walk along the Moses Springs trail towards the Monolith, just after passing below the low white overhang the trail will jog to the left away from the wall to avoid a large boulder. Heat Seeking Moisture Missile starts by stemming up between this boulder and the wall. It climbs the wide black streak up the wall through 3 bulges.
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