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Hearts and Arrows 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bruce Miller, Chris Weidner, August 26, 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 5,331
Submitted By: Chris Weidner on Jul 13, 2011

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Storm to the north of Longs Peak, taken from our b...

Description 

Begin beneath the D1 Pillar, at a short, left-facing corner, about 20 feet left of the top of the North Chimney.

P1: Climb the corner, then wander up the D1 Pillar on moderate terrain to a small ledge beneath a steep, right-facing corner. 5.6, 65m.

P2: Stem and jam the corner (p2 of D1) to its top, then tiptoe right on a narrow ledge and belay at its right margin. 5.8, 15m (can be combined with p1).

P3: Climb cracks above the belay for 15 feet, then traverse right toward a large, left-facing corner. Climb the sustained hands and offwidth corner past a two-pin anchor. Belay on a good ledge at its top. 5.10a, 58m.

P4: Ascend the rotten, left-facing corner until it slabs out (about 130 feet). Traverse thirty feet left (5.8 R) to belay at the base of a small, right-facing corner (this is where Hearts and Arrows deviates from the Enos Mills Wall). The belay is about 50 feet below the massive right-facing corner that’s pitch five of the Enos Mills Wall. 5.10b, 50m.

P5: Balance left around the sharp aręte that forms the corner. Climb left and up with difficulty past two bolts and a pin. Continue up cracks to a stance below a steep, right-facing corner (Jack of Diamonds p5). 5.11c, 15m.

P6: Jam and lieback the “Horrible Corner” to its top. Continue up a left-facing corner to a hanging belay (one bolt, one pin). 5.11a, 27m.

P7: Climb the aręte and face (fixed pin and nut) above the belay (5.10- R) to Table Ledge crack. Climb left a few feet then straight up double cracks (crux), emphasizing the right crack. After climbing a short chimney, belay on top of a large, black flake 5.12b, 25m.

P8: Jam a difficult section above the belay, then continue up a solitary, overhanging crack (fingers to fists, 11b) to beneath a roof. Surmount the roof (10d) and belay at a stance just above. 5.11b, 30m.

P9: Face climb right into a left-facing corner with an offwidth – the last pitch of Enos Mills Wall. Struggle up the wide crack to the top of the Diamond. 5.9, 40m .


Location 

Descend the North Face (Cables Route) of Long's Peak.


Protection 

1 ea: Nuts, TCUs, #4 and #5 Camalot.
2 ea: #0.4-#3 Camalot.
3 ea: #1 and #2 Camalot.



Photos of Hearts and Arrows Slideshow Add Photo
Climbers on Hearts and Arrows from Chasm View. July 2013.
Climbers on Hearts and Arrows from Chasm View. Jul...
Caldwell and Wharton cruising.
Caldwell and Wharton cruising.
Bruce Miller on the crux 7th pitch.
Bruce Miller on the crux 7th pitch.
Route line.
BETA PHOTO: Route line.
Bruce Miller leading the 4th pitch.
Bruce Miller leading the 4th pitch.
Bruce on the 5th pitch face traverse.
Bruce on the 5th pitch face traverse.
Bruce Miller leading the final offwidth to the top.
Bruce Miller leading the final offwidth to the top...
Chris Weidner leading the crux 7th pitch. Steep!
Chris Weidner leading the crux 7th pitch. Steep!
Topo.
BETA PHOTO: Topo.
Bruce beginning the 11a corner on pitch 6.
Bruce beginning the 11a corner on pitch 6.
Bruce Miller on the sustained cracks (11b) of pitch 8.
Bruce Miller on the sustained cracks (11b) of pitc...
Coming up to the belay at the end of the p5 traverse.
Coming up to the belay at the end of the p5 traver...
Comments on Hearts and Arrows Add Comment
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By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jul 13, 2011

Looks badass! Great photos. Maybe need to rescan topo, when I zoomed in, I couldn't read a thing.

Edit: Thanks!

By Chris Weidner
Jul 13, 2011

Thanks, YDPL8S. I resubmitted a higher res topo – it's now legible.

By Scott Bennett
Jul 19, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Great Route, nice find guys and huge thanks for putting it up!

Did it yesterday with my friend Rob, and we found the first two pitches (shared with D1) to be wet, but still easy. The whole middle portion of the route, and all the crux climbing, was in great shape. There were tickmarks everywhere, though, even on 5.10 terrain.

12b seemed right on for the crux pitch. Not sure if there were any moves as hard as 12a, but the whole package (p7 of sustained climbing at nearly 14k) adds up to a burly lead.

The final, OW pitch was seeping wet and slimy, and it didn't help that we led it during a hailstorm. It felt like the crux of the route!

Thanks again, and congrats on finding this gem right up the center of the big D!

-Scott

By Cedar Wright
Jul 5, 2012

WOW! I had the pleasure of repeating this with Joe Mills this week. What an awesome line! Props to Chris and Bruce for ferreting out a modern day free climbing classic. This is the best out of the five routes I have done on the Diamond so far. My thoughts.... The 10b "rotten" pitch is actually pretty cool and fun as you stem and jam through a wild crystal matrix. The 11c face traverse is incredibly classic, airy, exposed and I thought just as hard as the crux 12b pitch. It also feels like the point of no return, where the best way off is now up and over. You definitely need to be on your A-game for the 5.10R start to the 12b pitch! The last 11b pitch is INCREDIBLE, a burly splitter leads to a roof which looks to be 5.13 from below but succumbs at 5.10d! You belay for the final 5.9 offwidth at the lip of the roof in one of the most spectacular and exposed positions on the Diamond! Sustained, burly, and classic!!!

By EDJ
From: Eldorado Springs, Colorado
Aug 24, 2013

We did this route the day after heavy storms, and the wall was dripping wet. The climb was dry the whole way! An awesome classic!