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 ADVANCED
Beginners Area
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Beginners Layback  
Heartfelt Sorrow  
Heartless B!&ch 
Wide Crack 

Heartless B!&ch 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6- Font: 7A [details]
FA: Michael Zarnowski
Page Views: 641
Submitted By: Michael Z. on Sep 10, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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the start
Part of This area is on Private Property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

She can be tamed...

A powerful, technical line of slopers on clean solid rock with a good landing. Beginners may struggle with this one.

Start on an obvious "launch pad" grab some crimps and stand up onto a small edge. Now the fun begins, layback right onto slopers then swing under the overhang. Move right utilizing a range of techniques (Knee Bar), with few options for feet. Grab the arete get some feet then move around the arete. Reposition hands and feet, stand up then mantel up to the cleaned face above to top out.

...But doesn't give it up easily!

Descend via Beginners Layback


Location 

From the main trail turn left at Wide Crack this route climbs the rail atop a prominent overhang just right of Beginners Layback. Alternatively from the western most entrance to blackjack this is the first route that can be seen on the right.


Protection 

Pad & Spotter



Photos of Heartless B!&ch Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Z has it dialed!
Mike Z has it dialed!
The Finish...Mike Z on 2nd lap after red pointing
The Finish...Mike Z on 2nd lap after red pointing
Comments on Heartless B!&ch Add Comment
Show which comments
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 11, 2012

This is a really fun problem. the only down side is that the route consists of freshly scrubbed Rumney slopers... so it is sharp. The moves are very physical and fun. Looking forward to sending, was close today but the sharp rock tore too much skin off!