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Heart Shaped Rice Cake
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in (6) First Cave
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Agar Jelly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Boba Milk Tea 波霸奶茶 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Breezy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Calypso T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cape to the Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Clean Face S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Commissary Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deceiving Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Desert, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dragon Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Freddy's Nightmare T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Grass S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Heaven's Falling T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hornet's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jabba the Hutt 赫特族的賈霸 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lucid Dreaming T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Missionary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Muddy Undercling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Noodle Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Poopee 便便噓噓 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Reggae T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shark Attack 鯊魚攻擊 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sorry Valentine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Teratism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Visage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Walkway S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Westbound Road T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wonderland Fairy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Zhang Dengjong |
| Page Views: | 836 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | BrianWS on Nov 26, 2013 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Description
A very long route by local standard, and an excellent one at that.
P1: Also known as Valentine's Gift. Climb the slightly overhanging wall, passing a few small tiered roofs and a bit of wobbly rock along the way to a 2-bolt anchor at a decent stance. 10 bolts, very soft 12a. Really only worthwhile as an approach pitch for the next one...
P2: The quality pitch! There are cruxes gaining the L-facing dihedral and transitioning onto the billboard of rock that finishes the route. Transitioning left and pulling onto this face is thrilling, with nothing but air below your feet. Work through a few hard tugs on the slabby face to the second set of anchors. 14 bolts, 12c(?).
You could probably get away with bringing far less (maybe 18) and stringing both pitches into one. You'd need a few long runners.
When I climbed this, it could be rapped with one 60m rope from the second anchors, which would deposit you part way up the huge mound of dirt and rock outside of the cave. Scramble down the pile for about 50 feet or so to the trail. The height of the mound may have changed since then, so plan ahead and bring two ropes or break the descent into 2 separate rappels.
P1: Also known as Valentine's Gift. Climb the slightly overhanging wall, passing a few small tiered roofs and a bit of wobbly rock along the way to a 2-bolt anchor at a decent stance. 10 bolts, very soft 12a. Really only worthwhile as an approach pitch for the next one...
P2: The quality pitch! There are cruxes gaining the L-facing dihedral and transitioning onto the billboard of rock that finishes the route. Transitioning left and pulling onto this face is thrilling, with nothing but air below your feet. Work through a few hard tugs on the slabby face to the second set of anchors. 14 bolts, 12c(?).
You could probably get away with bringing far less (maybe 18) and stringing both pitches into one. You'd need a few long runners.
When I climbed this, it could be rapped with one 60m rope from the second anchors, which would deposit you part way up the huge mound of dirt and rock outside of the cave. Scramble down the pile for about 50 feet or so to the trail. The height of the mound may have changed since then, so plan ahead and bring two ropes or break the descent into 2 separate rappels.
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