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Vampire Rock
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A.C.E. S 
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Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 
Chupacabra T 
Climb-Eye-Knight S 
Crack of Desperation T 
Fear of Sunlight S 
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T,S 
Heart of the Narrows S 
Le Stat S 
Monkey's Sister S 
Monkey's Uncle S 
Pin Cushion S 
Stage Fright T 
That's Weak S,TR 
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Vampire, The T 
Wanker S 

Heart of the Narrows 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob Horan, Richard Rossiter and Chule Lee, 1996
Page Views: 1,398
Submitted By: Aeon Aki on Jun 16, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Irina Overeem making the crux traverse right at th...
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 (5.10) Start below the gully 50 feet left of That's Weak. Climb the gully to a blunt buttress and the first bolt. Climb the buttress then step right and go up to a good ledge with an overhang. Pull the overhang and continue to the anchor. Unclipping the rope from the bolt left of the ledge helps reduce rope drag if you plan on linking into pitch 2. This can be done safely by clipping the bolt at the step roof then moving back down to unclip.

P2 (5.12) From the anchors for pitch 1, angle up and right along the slab ramp to the base of the gold-streaked headwall. Climb straight up the increasingly difficult face using small crimps and edges to a 2 bolt anchor. The position is spectacular and climbing is stellar though the crux is short-lived.

A 70m rope will get you all the way back to the ground from the top of pitch 2 if you don't continue to the final pitches.

More info coming as soon as I get my ass up there....


Protection 

P1: 7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
P2: 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Heart of the Narrows Slideshow Add Photo
Heart of the Narrows, first pitch.  The cruxes are a step right at the 4th bolt and turning the roof at the 6th bolt.  Use a long runner on the 5th bolt to keep down rope drag.
BETA PHOTO: Heart of the Narrows, first pitch. The cruxes are...
Irina Overeem starting up Heart of the Narrows.
Irina Overeem starting up Heart of the Narrows.
Irina Overeem cranking the roof at the 6th bolt.
Irina Overeem cranking the roof at the 6th bolt.
Comments on Heart of the Narrows Add Comment
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By S. Kimball
Jun 28, 2005

I know this is the first pitch of a longer route, but standing alone, this pitch is a pile with a poorly placed bolt at the roof.

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Oct 13, 2005

The belay at the top of the first pitch consisted of one 3/8" Rawl five-piece bolt and two old, 1/4" bolts. Ron Olsen and I removed the two 1/4" bolts and added a 3/8" SS Rawl five piece bolt. We added quick links and chains to replace the slings for rappel.

The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.

By SAL
From: broomdigiddy
Jul 10, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Who the hell posts a route with 4 pitches and then only informs users of two of them????

Wassup Aki???
;)

P3 did not look attractive to me. P2 on this route is super sweet. Good rock, solid holds and perty colors.

By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Jul 15, 2008

Patience young grass smoker. More info is on the way...

By SAL
From: broomdigiddy
Jul 15, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Unacceptable time frame for beta.
I call shinannigans!!!

Choss monkey...
muuuhahahahahahah

By Clare Shemeta
Sep 3, 2009

What would anyone rate P1? I thought it is harder 10. I think it's worth doing, and the roof is really fun. Nice new anchor at the top, thanks!!

By acouncell
From: Estes Park, CO
May 24, 2012

Scott's right, that bolt near the top of pitch one is poorly placed right at the edge of the roof, so your carbiner gets loaded over the edge. Best to link pitches 1 & 2 as one. Third pitch is barely 5th class, but the fourth pitch is good. Pitch 4 is a lot of 5.10 climbing with a very stout crux move (for me). But it's good, safe and fun.
Bring a few small to medium cams to build an anchor at the base of pitch 4 to give an adequate belay. Two raps to the ground with a 70m.