Heart of Stone
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 4 from 16 votes
Type: | Trad, 10 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Vern Clevenger, Claude Fiddler, Dave Lomba, August 1980 |
Page Views: | 8,494 total · 60/month |
Shared By: | Christina Freschl on Sep 3, 2012 · Updates |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Pitch 1: 5.10c slab climbing past 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor at top
Pitch 2: 5.10d mixed climbing past two bolts. Thin lay back through the crux. Two bolt anchor.
Pitch 3: 5.10d thin corner of mixed climbing with two bolts. Thin seam climbing. Don't miss the second bolt after the end of the first corner. Watch the rock quality on the first half of the pitch.
Pitch 4: 5.10b/c Slab climbing, trending left, past three bolts up to big ledge with a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 5: Blocky 5.7 corner. Set the belay at the top of the blocks. #1-3 gear anchor.
Pitch 6: The pitch!!! Start with hands to thin hands up to the first roof corner. Lay back up the finger crack. Stem rest when you can. Finish through thin roof traversing left to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 7: Traverse left, place gear in seams and then bust the 5.10 improbable mantle move to the first bolt. Then keep mantling past another bolt to a right ascending crack on easy terrain to a single bolt which you can back up with a #1-2 cam.
Pitch 8: 5.10 b slab climbing trending right to a gear anchor on a ledge.
Pitch 9: Traverse right and pull through steep knobs to a single bolt, then traverse slightly left and then right. Don't miss the single bolts, which is more RIGHT then the route suggests. Belay with a single bolt anchor back up with #1-2 cams.
Pitch 10: Clip bolt right at the roof and pull the improbable 5.11c mantle move. When that is done move up and slightly right past bolts. Gear anchor.
Pitch 11: Easy terrain to the top.
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