Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Round Valley Draw
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Heart of Sandstone T,S 
Second Thoughts T 
Testing T 

Heart of Sandstone 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Zac Warren, Roy Suggett, and Phyllis Suggett
New Route: Yes
Season: All
Page Views: 402
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Nov 29, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Upper section

Description 

Just past the last of three bolts, the crux is getting into the main crack on the face to the right. Then hang on for a LONG ride!

Location 

Just right of Second Thoughts and right of an offwidth you start in but move right and out of quickly to the obvious line on the right of an attached pillar on the face.

Protection 

Bring every cam you can beg, borrow, or steal - .5s to a couple of 4s. Clip the first bolt with a quick draw, the second with a shoulder length runner, and the third with a long runner. This keeps the rope in a straighter line and also out of the short crack right and between bolts 2 and 3(see beta topo). Gear most likely is not needed between bolt 2 and 3. If you think you do, then you might want to back off right then and there! Bolt anchor with webbing. TWO Ropes!


Photos of Heart of Sandstone Slideshow Add Photo
VERY long route!
BETA PHOTO: VERY long route!
Long route
BETA PHOTO: Long route
Lower section
BETA PHOTO: Lower section

Comments on Heart of Sandstone Add Comment
Show which comments
By BSU_Zac
From: Cedar City, UT
Jan 2, 2013

This is a great line that is much longer than it appears from the ground. After the last bolt, is an amazing no-hands traverse that will leave your rear clamped tighter than the tips wide crack you are traversing toward. Enjoy the ever-widening, although not widening fast enough, crack to the anchors. Plug gear whenever you can because the rock is soft and she will spit you out faster than you can fall. And listen to Roy's advice, if you feel you need gear for the bottom section just stay off the route. The bottom is only 5.8ish and Tropic S&R is busy enough plucking stranded German women off of scree slopes without having to come save you.