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Heart of Gold 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: P1: Charlie Fowler & James Stevens P2: Conrad Anker & Kevin Thaw
Page Views: 609
Submitted By: Bingman on Aug 10, 2008

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Description 

A brilliant climb!

P1: Climb confidently up through the first few bolts with excellent movement on good holds, then move out left to the arete (crux) and continue up this spectacular arete to the first set of chains. This pitch is arguably the best on the wall with fun movement and very good rock. (5.11+)

P2: Continue up the face through a roof clipping bolts along the way. (5.10+)

Location 

This is the 18th route down the line. Go down the small hill, and this will be the first climb to the left on the orange wall proper. Start just right of an obvious arete, stay to the right, and eventually go out left to the arete up high.

Protection 

P1: Bolts to chains. P2: Bolts to chains.


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