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 ADVANCED
Duty Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Slice of Ice T 
Bombs Away T 
Goatland T 
Heart of Gold T,S 
Jazzy Document S 
Party Line T,S 
Rat Trap T,S 
Urban Nomads T 

Heart of Gold 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Gordon Briody, Dave Bale, Viktor Kramar 1998
Page Views: 1,716
Submitted By: ScottH on Jun 21, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Top of the First Pitch

Description 

Heart of Gold is a fine multi-pitch journey up the bulk of Duty Dome. Excellent face climbing and thoughtfully placed bolts make for a pleasantly hard climb up beautiful stone.

P1. Begin at the left side of a long roof, following bolts up and then right to a crystal-laden slab and the anchor.

P2. Traverse directly right from the belay, following an obvious hand crack under a roof and around the corner. Trend up and right to the anchor.

P3. The meat. A delicate section off the belay leads to 30m of friction face climbing. The burn you will develop in your calves is worth it.

P4. Easier face climbing leads to a belay near the top of the dome.

Location 

To descend, scramble off the right side of the dome, and walk down the gully between Duty Dome and Warrior Wall. Rappel slings are in place on most of the anchors, but rappelling the route after the second pitch would certainly require some improvisation.

Protection 

Mostly bolt protected, with a few pieces up to 1". A pink tricam fits nicely in a runout on the first pitch. One or two pieces will protect the P2 traverse for the second, and a small microcam or alien can be placed for the timid low on P3.


Photos of Heart of Gold Slideshow Add Photo
Textured face climbing!
Textured face climbing!
Looking up at the Heart of Gold pitch
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the Heart of Gold pitch
On the "bubbly slab" (pitch 3) on Heart ...
On the "bubbly slab" (pitch 3) on Heart ...

Comments on Heart of Gold Add Comment
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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 16, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I have heard how people get lost on the 2nd pitch traverse so I will add: go right till you are traversing under and around a roof till you have to mantle up past a small tree, pass 2 button head RAWL bolts on face going right and uphill till you see the 2 hangers of the belay.
If when you top out and are not climbing one of the great routes at the Warrior wall you can rap down to the top of Straight Street anchor and make 2 single rope raps to Off Duty area.