Login with Facebook
Orange Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Get a Haircut Doug T 
Hazmat T 
Heart of Darkness T 
Rico's Maildrop S 
Tatanka T 

Heart of Darkness 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
Page Views: 301
Submitted By: David Barbour on May 20, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Two bolts protect the start. Forget about placing ...

South side crags access issue. MORE INFO >>>


The meat of this route is at the bottom. You can start below the first bolt (a good hold broke here while we were on it, so it is probably a bit harder), or ~6 ft to the left. Clip the only two bolts on the route, and pump your way through some typical New River Gorge not-really-crack-climbing. After this, enjoy easier gear protected climbing to the anchors.


Far left end of Orange Wall, right of Tatanka and Rock Jihad. Very distinct 20 ft crack at the bottom


2 bolts, gear, Metolius rap anchors

Comments on Heart of Darkness Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joseph Crotty
From: Broomfield, CO
May 20, 2013

The top two thirds consists of climbing on a bunch of really cool microwave oven sized plates. A medium sized sampling of cams up to #1 Camalot provide pro in mostly horizontal seams between plates. A tad heady but really fun after the crux.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!