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Orange Wall
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Get a Haircut Doug T 
Hazmat T 
Heart of Darkness T 
Rico's Maildrop S 
Tatanka T 

Heart of Darkness 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
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Page Views: 214
Submitted By: David Barbour on May 20, 2013

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Two bolts protect the start. Forget about placing ...

South side crags access issue. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The meat of this route is at the bottom. You can start below the first bolt (a good hold broke here while we were on it, so it is probably a bit harder), or ~6 ft to the left. Clip the only two bolts on the route, and pump your way through some typical New River Gorge not-really-crack-climbing. After this, enjoy easier gear protected climbing to the anchors.

Location 

Far left end of Orange Wall, right of Tatanka and Rock Jihad. Very distinct 20 ft crack at the bottom

Protection 

2 bolts, gear, Metolius rap anchors


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By Joseph P. Crotty
From: Broomfield, CO
May 20, 2013

The top two thirds consists of climbing on a bunch of really cool microwave oven sized plates. A medium sized sampling of cams up to #1 Camalot provide pro in mostly horizontal seams between plates. A tad heady but really fun after the crux.