Heart of Darkness
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A delightful and unique climb that starts to the right of Black Rose. Some slippery and tricky face climbing at the start leads to an excellent crack that combines with critical face holds to keep the rating reasonable. Key placements protect the climb throughout, but at the start are hard to find.
The upper crack protects on wires and small to medium cams, but the bottom is the crux for protection. A variety of small Tri-cams and opposition RPs can get you off the ground. Don't miss the horizontally slotted small stopper (#3?) that protects the pull over the overhang.
AMH above the runout start and looking for decent ...
AMH in what I thought to be the cruxy bit. Photo b...
Apparently there's gear around here!
|Comments on Heart of Darkness
|By Tavis Ricksecker|
From: Bishop, ca
Apr 28, 2009
Beautiful stone and cool moves. This would be a serious lead but is easily toproped.
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 16, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R
Looked hard for pro to protect the start and didn't find it -- But, the climbing is mellow to the roof if careful and then relatively poor pro protects pulling the roof (a rattly #3 and a so-so 0.5 BD). The upper section is the sweetness and the pro is also tricky. Would definitely call this not for the faint of heart to lead in comparison with all the other bomber pro climbs here. Small stoppers are key and not falling in the first 20-25 ft is also key!