Heart of Darkness 

Only 3 out of 5 stars (despite the excellent quality of crack and rock) because it is just too short. 5.11a is about right, the crux is only about a body length long.

The route is short, but I think it still deserves 3(5) stars because this type of crack is so rare at jtree.

As is usually the case, a crack's difficulty is determined by hand size. You've all heard it (I hope!), " big hands, big weenie."

This route is at least as hard as The Valleys 5.11-'s that I have done.

So what is the deal with the large chains, cant you get set up anchor and walk off?

The anchor is there because no easy way exists off the formation; a simul-rap is possible but would be very harsh on your rope.

Thanks for clearing that one up CM.

I cleaned the bottom 10 feet of this crack in 1989 thinking I was making the first ascent (the crack was packed with a chossy softer rock) and gave it the name "Heart of Darkness" and placed the lower-off bolts at the top. I'm NOT calling BS by any means, just wondering if there was a mistake.

Jim: If there is a mistake, it would be that Dale and Rick climbed some other crack in the same area. But this seems to be the only crack that fits the discription and rating. In the ensuing years I haven't heard of another thin hands 5.11 crack in the area. If nothing else, your name seems to have stuck and was the reason why I named the formation Conrad Rock.

Chris (Jim) these are all good questions. Since both Dale and Rick are around, I will try to talk to both of them about this.

However, Dale never claimed the FA of Brain Death (just first lead). Also Brain Death is in the Comic Book, a couple miles from Conrad Rock. Brain Death is solid 12a (not 11c). Spencer Lennard did the first TR of Brain Death in 1978. FA of Heart of Darkness was "claimed" by Cashner and Bard in 79.

For a long time people called Heart of Darkness 11b or c (Bartlett calls it 11b) which is more in line with the 11c rating (though concensus is now 11a).

Something that could be sorted out with a few phone calls perhaps.

Chris, not to belabor the point (I think we basically agree), but the 1986 guide should not be taken as the gospel on the FA info (some of the info was often third hand). The 1992 guide tried more to get info right (wasn't super successful with that, though).

I suspect I changed the TR vs. Lead because someone corrected the info. Anyway, will investigate.

Next time you're out there, after doing HOD try the "Closet Rod" chimney. Put your feet on the back wall and your hands on the HOD side and do a full body span of the corridor to the top.

A fun little route! I'd even lean toward 5.10d for skinny little hands like mine. Most definitely hand size dependent.

I don't care how short it is, this is a great route! Both guidebooks I have say 5.11c, but 5.11a is really more accurate. This climb is easier if you have smaller hands, but even with bigger hands like mine it wasn't near 5.11c. A rare J-Tree featherbag maybe???

Mike, no doubt this rating (11a) will be adapted in upcoming editions of Joshua Tree guidebooks.

Did this route one cold and windy day.My friend Jack led it first then had to retreat due to numb very cold hands. So I gave a go. Got to were it starts overhanging and then my fingers got numb. So I had to take, put on my gloves warmed up and then sent it right after. (Without the gloves of course). Returned a few month later and fell towards the top. Awesome climb beautiful rock. Wish it was longer.

If you have small hands like I do (even .75's are still tight hands for me), this is more like a 5.9+/10a. I had a blast on this today. At the top don't plug up the #1 pods with gear, use them for your hands and feet. I placed a #1 from the good stance below the crux, then placed a .75, bumped the .75 up, and then placed a #2 before clipping the chains and topping out. Super fun. Just wish it were longer!

How do you do those jams?? Too small for hands, too big for fingers. I was stacking my fingers up and sliding my hand in far and twisting and all this stuff. I made it, but I hung with every piece of protection (I put a lot of pro in).

I'll go with 5.10d on this one. For reference, I think it feels a touch easier than, say, Jaws (.11a) at Mt. Woodson. However, handsize can be a factor on this crack. Given that this climb never receives sun, its perfect for those unpleasantly warm days.

Funny, for my hand size I say Mt. Woodson's Jaws is easier... still, 11a seemed about right for me. Fun climb - wish JTree had more and longer splitters like this!

One bolt on the anchor needs replacing. Gear for me was yellow alien, then 3 x BD .75. No need for bigger gear since you would be placing it in the good pods anyway

In my opinion, the crux jamming on Heart of Darkness was about the same difficulty as the thin jamming section of Lunatic Fringe and I have bigger hands.

Don't have particularly small hands and still found it to be 5.10+. You can climb the whole upper section on hand jams (used perhaps one ring lock - thin hand jam).