The crack and the leftward traverse are cruiser. The giant pockets of AJBT lead you into the left hand crux throw of the lower section. A few more intense moves deposit you just left of the Screaming Night Hog anchors and a pretty good rest. Launch straight up edges and fairly sustained .12+ climbing to reach the anchors.
Begin with the crack system for Schools Out and Jackabite, but trend left following the undercling system under the bulge. Clip one bolt from Screaming Night Hog and 2 from Aunt Jemima's Bisquick Thunderdome as you move left and onto the bulge. Now go left and straight up into the HB&S bolt line, to finish at the second pitch anchor of Colors of Heaven. Confused? Try it. It makes sense.
Lots of bolts... 18 or so
|Comments on Heart, Balls and Swagger
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Sep 24, 2012
Always thought this was one of the sickest route names in Tensleep.