Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Slavery Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aunt Jemimas Bisquick Thunderdome 
Burden of Immortality, The 
Calm Like A Bomb 
Colors of Heaven 
Crown Prince Abdullah 
EKV: Exo-atmospheric Kill Vehicle 
Happiness in Slavery 
Head Like a Hole 
Heart, Balls and Swagger 
Mommas Mental Medication 
Number One Enemy 
Number One Enemy (AKA: Popsicle Sandwich) 
Papa Knows Best 
School's Out 
Screaming Night Hog 
Shake Your Money Maker 
Wagon Wheel of Death 

Heart, Balls and Swagger 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Kevin Wilkinson
Page Views: 226
Submitted By: Mike Snyder on Sep 24, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]


The crack and the leftward traverse are cruiser. The giant pockets of AJBT lead you into the left hand crux throw of the lower section. A few more intense moves deposit you just left of the Screaming Night Hog anchors and a pretty good rest. Launch straight up edges and fairly sustained .12+ climbing to reach the anchors.


Begin with the crack system for Schools Out and Jackabite, but trend left following the undercling system under the bulge. Clip one bolt from Screaming Night Hog and 2 from Aunt Jemima's Bisquick Thunderdome as you move left and onto the bulge. Now go left and straight up into the HB&S bolt line, to finish at the second pitch anchor of Colors of Heaven. Confused? Try it. It makes sense.


Lots of bolts... 18 or so

Comments on Heart, Balls and Swagger Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Sep 24, 2012

Always thought this was one of the sickest route names in Tensleep.