Headwall Crack Left 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 55 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Len Margolin, 1971 |
| Submitted By: | Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007 |
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Overlook
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Description Super fun jamming and stemming in the corner left of the bolted climb No Exit and just right of Paul's Boutique. The crack eats up pro so this is a good lead for those just learning to place pro.
Location The corner left of the bolted climb No Exit and just right of Paul's Boutique. Shown as route number 6 on the Overlook route topo photo.
Protection In this order: #8 BD nut, #.75 camalot, #1 camalot, #1 camalot, #2 camalot and a 3 and/or 4 for the finish to bolted anchor. :-)
Sarah nearing the top, at the wide crack.
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| Comments on Headwall Crack Left |
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By Mark Mathis
Apr 12, 2007
| Best route at this grade at the Overlook and often "Overlooked" (please forgive me) by beginners. Also an enjoyable trad warmup. |
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.8
| I agree, this is definitely one of the easiest cracks at Overlook and a nice lead for a beginning trad leader. It tends to be a bit dirty after rainstorms, but the dust clears out pretty quick. Takes good pro and allows for those less comfortable climbing solely in a crack to stem their way all the way up. Widens a bit near the top, but there are good holds to the left of the chains that make clipping easy. |
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