Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Citadel Crag
Select Route:
Citadel Crack 
Cracked Egg Boulder 
Heads of the Valley 

Heads of the Valley 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Cupps and Wilke? '93?
Page Views: 646
Submitted By: Brian Weinstein on Jun 11, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
The route.

Description 

This route takes the prominent dike system that diagonals right along the southeast face. The start is the crux and is heady though a fixed stopper eases the groundfall potential. Cruise through the two-move crux, and follow the line of bolts until the dike ends.


Protection 

5 bolts, 1 fixed stopper, 1 pin, and 1 set of large stoppers. Belay near a pin, walk off.



Comments on Heads of the Valley Add Comment
Show which comments
By FC John
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 6, 2007

This route has a very stout, boulder start with a strenuous first clip. There was a small and manky nut before the first bolt that I'm not sure would hold a fall.

I placed a orange TCU and a medium nut in between some of the bolts. Continue climbing right on the dike until you reach a pod with a manky old pin. Set up a anchor with #0.75, 0.5 BD and a few nuts to bring up your second. Walk off to the climber's right.

By Jason Funk
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 29, 2008

Tough start, definitely harder than the guidebook (Fat Crack Country) rating of 9+. The holds especially towards the beginning aren't as obvious as they look. Yeah there is a few good places for gear but far in between, I wouldn't want to do this without the bolts.

By Tom Kelley
Oct 5, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13

The climbing is ok, but the formation you will be climbing on is so unique that I feel obligated to give this route more stars. It is possible to back up the fixed nut with a tiny cam (smallest Camalot or Metolius) with just a little fidgeting. This makes the stretch for the first clip more comfortable for us short folks. I'd also strongly recommend carrying gear to place between the bolts. Having climbed this route once before the bolts were added, I can definitely say this route is less adventurous but a lot more enjoyable with them in place.