Located on the left side of the wall, Big Chief arete isn't really an arete for most of the climb. Instead, it ascends enormous clubic blocks that are either 45 degrees overhanging or 45 degrees slab. The climb is very similar in feel to its neighbor Killer Bee, but a little tougher because of a tricky roof about two-thirds of the way up. Vertigo will also be a factor, but its worth it!
Don't pay too much attention to the topo in Carville's book. He has the relative locations of the climbs right, but the rock features he has drawn in don't make sense to me.
8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Slab, Bulge, Slab, Bulge, Slab, Bulge... Is it any...
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 29, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
One move of 5.10d coming out of the final roof on a weird side-pull. Are you sure that the rotue described here is not 'Headrush?'
Problem is, if this line is big chief Arete, then what is the line between this and Killer Bee, just to the right? That climb there was better, and harder. You can do it to the anchors of the climb described here (10b) or keep going up and right past 3-4 more bolts passing a hand jam(14 in all?) to the top. One of the better climbs at the cliff. I think that is the real Big Chief, and the one described here is Headrush.
Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
agree with Tony B. the description is incorrect. Headrush starts in the corner under a tree while Big Chief Arete is just left of Killer Bee. See books.