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All Guns Blazing 
Big Chief Arete 
Bird of Prey 
Blazing Buckets 
Eat the Worm 
Force Feed 
Green Hornet 
Killer Bee 
Pow Wow 
Route Stealers From Hell 
Running Bull 
Toilet Earth 
Too Light to Wait 
Totally Chawsome 
Trail of Tears 
Travail Buttress 
War Paint 
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Wicked Quickie 
Witch Doctor 


YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: D. Hatchett, J. McKitterick 1993
Page Views: 1,364
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Aug 23, 2002
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Tony Bubb leads Headrush (11a) while Zander Rose i...


Located on the left side of the wall, Big Chief arete isn't really an arete for most of the climb. Instead, it ascends enormous clubic blocks that are either 45 degrees overhanging or 45 degrees slab. The climb is very similar in feel to its neighbor Killer Bee, but a little tougher because of a tricky roof about two-thirds of the way up. Vertigo will also be a factor, but its worth it!

Don't pay too much attention to the topo in Carville's book. He has the relative locations of the climbs right, but the rock features he has drawn in don't make sense to me.


8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of Headrush Slideshow Add Photo
Slab, Bulge, Slab, Bulge, Slab, Bulge... Is it anywonder Tony Bubb is gettign a'Headrush' (5.11a) at the Big Chief Wall in the Truckee River canyon? Photo by Gwen Johnson, 9/03.
Slab, Bulge, Slab, Bulge, Slab, Bulge... Is it any...
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 29, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

One move of 5.10d coming out of the final roof on a weird side-pull. Are you sure that the rotue described here is not 'Headrush?'

Problem is, if this line is big chief Arete, then what is the line between this and Killer Bee, just to the right? That climb there was better, and harder. You can do it to the anchors of the climb described here (10b) or keep going up and right past 3-4 more bolts passing a hand jam(14 in all?) to the top. One of the better climbs at the cliff. I think that is the real Big Chief, and the one described here is Headrush.

By cachu
Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

agree with Tony B. the description is incorrect. Headrush starts in the corner under a tree while Big Chief Arete is just left of Killer Bee. See books.