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Head/pick movement on petzl ergo or nomic

Original Post
Jason S. · · Durango, Co · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 150

I just picked up a pair of new generation ergos, and after climbing on them less than 10 hours, both of the heads have a little bit of movement when I pull on them. I always checked the bolts before going out, and they were kept super tight. I can't tighten them enough to stop the movement, and I am wondering if anybody else is having a similar problem. Both of my tools are displaying the same issue... a small amount of noisy movement in the head. Did I get a crappy set, or are they just flexy, noisy tools?

Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520

I have the new quarks which share the same head, and I can say that I've never experienced such a problem climbing on them for the last year or so.

Maybe others can chime in, but it sounds like a defect to me...the attachment holes in the pick are too big

Kevin Connolly · · CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

i had a head on my quarks come loose where the head would move in relation to the shaft due to the rivet failing. the rivet did not come out but it would spin in its hole. i would take it back to wherever you got it but if that is not an option let me know and i can probably find you the contact info for the rep that helped me out the second time which was way faster than going through the store where i bought them. if you got them through some major online retailer like backcountry that should be really easy. i would expect to see more issues like this now that the europeans are trying to compete with companies like black diamond making a killing by paying shitty wages in third world countries.

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

I'd call Petzl USA. They're pretty responsive.

Jeff Johnston · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 110
Jason S. wrote:I just picked up a pair of new generation ergos, and after climbing on them less than 10 hours, both of the picks have a little bit of movement when I pull on them. I always checked the bolts before going out, and they were kept super tight. I can't tighten them enough to stop the movement, and I am wondering if anybody else is having a similar problem. Both of my tools are displaying the same issue... a small amount of noisy movement in the pick. I can post a video if anybody is having trouble visualizing the problem. Did I get a crappy set, or are they just sloppy, noisy tools?
There is not suspose to be any movement in the pick/heads. Contact Petzl and let them know there is a three year warenty and if a rivet is comming loose that the a manufactier defect.
My nomics are super tight and have zero head and pick movement.
Jason S. · · Durango, Co · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 150

Here is what I am working with... it looks like the head/shaft connection is shifting. I am waiting to hear back from petzl. After looking at the warranty page, I was alarmed to note that marker and stickers will void the warranty on helmets. I wonder why they don't want people using sharpie to put a name in a helmet...
youtube.com/watch?v=nPobRtw…

Dane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 562

Looks/sounds like a defective tool to me. Just call Petzl, get and RA# and send them back. I have no doubt they will immediately take care of you.

Leo Paik · · Westminster, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 22,800

Suck. My old Quasars used to do that. I was told it was the crush washer. Replacing them helped a bit, but they were never tight. My Quarks were tight to start but started doing a bit of this. My Nomics don't do that yet. Definitely contact Petzl.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

Jason, let me know what you hear from Petzl. Just noticed that my Nomics make the same squeaking noise when dry tooling. Thanks!

Ian Cavanaugh · · Ketchum, ID · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 620

Sharpies are very acidic and can have affects on the foam quality in the helmet. That is why they dont want you to use them. stickers they might have found some types of sticker glues that could have the same affect.

Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520

Just wondering: is this noise coming from play between the pick and the head, or from play between the head and shaft?

Jason S. · · Durango, Co · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 150

The sharpie/foam argument is logical, but my Ecrin roc is foam free... I just heard back from petzl, it sounds like they want me to send them in... I am currently waiting on a RA#. The noise is coming from the head shifting inside the shaft, resulting in the pick angle changing. One tool is slightly worse than the other, but they are both noisy and have a fair bit of play.

Marty Theriault · · Quebec, QC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 310

I have been rocking nomic's since the first gen came out.... 7 years ish... ive had this prob in the past, check the bolts, the threads get crushed after some use... get new bolts and it should solve this..

Rob Cotter · · Silverthorne, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 240

More quality products from Petzl. Check what this skinny Russian chick did to this Nomic...

Busted Nomic

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

+1 on Petzl hooking you up..

Rob.. Still hating on Nomics? Haha.. I would defend them again if I still had them. Cassin X Dreams are the bomb!

Jeff Johnston · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 110
Kirby1013 wrote: +1 on Petzl hooking you up.. Rob.. Still hating on Nomics? Haha.. I would defend them again if I still had them. Cassin X Dreams are the bomb!
I have the original nomics with cascade pick whic is an awesome tool.
I bought my wife a set of Cassin X-dreams this winter and Iam likeing the X-dreams over the Nomics.
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Jeff.. Try the X Dreams in ice mode on the handle then switch the mixed pick out to the X ice pick. After that install your Nomic pick weights onto the ice picks. The X Dreams climb ice better than any other tool out there set up like that. They work well on mixed stuff too. Oh and no detuning the picks either!

Jeff Johnston · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 110
Kirby1013 wrote:Jeff.. Try the X Dreams in ice mode on the handle then switch the mixed pick out to the X ice pick. After that install your Nomic pick weights onto the ice picks. The X Dreams climb ice better than any other tool out there set up like that. They work well on mixed stuff too. Oh and no detuning the picks either!
Iam still sporting the mixed pick that came with the X-dreams.
Ill be picking up the ice picks next season most likley

So am I reading this correct. After installing the ice pick on the X-Dream, also install the Nomic weights on the X-dream's pick. . .?
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Yes, install the weights from your Nomics onto the X ice pick. Trust me.. The X Dreams don't stick in the ice as well with no weights.

The X Dreams set up this way will amaze! They stick usually with one swing. The picks are made in Italy out of stronger steel then the Petzl picks. Therefore the X ice pick is narrower than the Petzl and displaces less ice. No more bashing out every placement! The X ice picks clean way better too.. and you don't have to detune them. The X ice picks are really to go out of the wrapper.

Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520
Kirby1013 wrote: The picks are made in Italy out of stronger steel then the Petzl picks..
I implore you to back this up with some facts.
Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

The X-Dream is way better than the Nomic, all you have to do is buy all new picks and use some Petzl parts. You'll never go back to Petzl after that.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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