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The Four Horsemen
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Calamity Jam T 
Crack Of Infinity T 
Equineimity S 
Friday's Jinx T 
Headless Horseman S 
John Galt Line S 
No Golf Shoes S 
Pack Animal T 
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Snuffy Smith S 
Taiwan On S 
Tuff It Out S 

Headless Horseman 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Doug Phillips summer 1987, FFA: Greg Phillips summer 1987
Page Views: 1,458
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 26, 2006

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Description 

A fun route with good position on the Third Horseman, which is adjacent to the tallest tower just to a climber's right.

Starting with a step off of a bolted belay onto the face it meanders up good rock with consistent and fun 5.10+ climbing. The bolts are spaced pretty well, which makes for some spicy moves once you start moving around the aretes.


Protection 

10 bolts to a bolted anchor.

One of the bolts on the belay stance at the bottom has mysteriously gone missing, so there's only one (very solid) bolt remaining. It might be possible to weasel in a cam or nut nearby to have a second piece, but the single bolt is probably fine.



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By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 9, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This enjoyable route feels taller than it is and features some enjoyable moves.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 18, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Great route. Technical, balancy, but not pumpy at all. The main crux is a short affair between the 4th and 5th bolt, but the movement on the arete above will get your attention. If you want to avoid hellish rope drag, use a long sling on the 3rd bolt. A 70m rope JUST makes the rappel.

By Joel Sprenger
From: Terrebonne, OR
Nov 28, 2007

If your belayer is on the ledge, the climber can lower all the way down with a 60m rope. Great climb, and for the height, not pumpy at all. If your not comfortable with spaced bolts, you'll love this one.

By Whippin
From: Bend, OR
Jun 22, 2013

Really fun route. Run out but very easy to the 1st bolt; throw in a .75 or #1 if you're feeling sketched.