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Nov 5, 2012
I'm taking my first trip to Red Rocks this weekend, and just looking for some route suggestions. I'd love some nice techy/facey climbs in the .10's and easy .11's.

It looks like most of the multipitch is sport/trad. I haven't done a ton of mixed routes, and so curious how much gear you really need? I know it will vary with each route, but about how much gear do you really end up placing?

Are they mostly bolted with a couple of spots where you'd feel more comfortable with extra pieces, or lots of gear with some bolts? - looking for suggestions of the former where I could get away with a super light rack (any thoughts on exactly what I should bring would be helpful too!).

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
Lauren Trojan
From Cary, NC
Joined Oct 26, 2009
0 points
Nov 5, 2012
Bring a normal rack. The mixed lines tend to be well bolted with places where you can throw some gear in, so single rack is more than enough for most of those but as you said it varies depending on the route you want to do. There are so many good trad lines though I would just go ahead and bring your normal sized trad rack. Standard trad rack works though, set of nuts and cams .3-3 with doubles in the mid size ranges.

And also its RED ROCK. The locals always feel the need to get on people for adding an S.
RockyMtnTed
Joined Jul 24, 2012
7 points
Nov 5, 2012
Third pillar of dana descent.
The reason I love Red Rocks... The techy mixed gear.

Here's what i'd recommend:
Y2K 10a
DoWT 10a
The Next Century 10d (Single Rack to 2/3 w/ RP's)
Breakaway 10d (Just a few cams)
Mai Thai 10d
Risky Business 10+ (R rated)
Excellent Adventure 11+ (R rated)
Only the Good Die Younng 11+ (Primarily 10 climbing)
Lev 29 11+
Drifting 11+

Those are just a few... As far as the gear goes, it really depends on the route. Handren usually has accurate gear list in his book, but not always. You can also check on here. For the harder 10's and 11's, usually you'll need RP's and smaller cams. A lot of the multi-pitch techy face climbing usually requires at least a single rack. Hope this helps.
Rob Fielding
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined May 8, 2011
259 points
Nov 5, 2012
Third pillar of dana descent.
Did I say Red Rocks?!?!?! Rob Fielding
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined May 8, 2011
259 points
Nov 5, 2012
I love Red Rocks and the Sierras (I've heard the same "don't add an 's' to the Sierra" argument!) FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
127 points
Nov 5, 2012
OTL
Frisco!!! Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
368 points
Nov 5, 2012
Matt N wrote:
Frisco!!!


San Louie Obispo!
FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
127 points
Nov 5, 2012
Saint George. Eric-D
From Las Vegas, nv
Joined Sep 19, 2010
376 points
Nov 5, 2012
I'd say most of the routes here are the sort where you need a full rack. There are exceptions- PoD, Unimpeachable, Levitation, etc, etc, but for the most part, the canyons of Red Rock are a trad area (just because a route has bolts on it, doesnt make it 'mixed' or part 'sport'- i still cant figure out why people call it that...)

Rack to 4", doubles to 3". That'll get you up just about everything in the park. You wont need to take all of it on every route, of course, but having that around will give you the option of climbing whatever strikes your fancy.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,393 points
Nov 5, 2012
The Seward Highway is really beautiful.
Looking for a partner too!? I've got a rack.. Brian Prince
From morro bay, ca
Joined Mar 30, 2010
683 points


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