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High Wire Crag
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Head Up Dirty S 
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Head Up Dirty 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Matt Lloyd
New Route: Yes
Season: faces east, morning sun
Page Views: 1,929
Submitted By: mlloyd on Sep 20, 2011

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The crux.
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on two good, incut crimpers, climb straight up following bolts to a good rest below the roof (12a/b), then clip the draw in the roof and make big moves out the horizontal roof (12+). This is height dependent. Mantel and clip the anchors.


Location 

This is on the east side of Tunnel Two, right of the tunnel. It is above Hip at the Lip and Power Play and below Idiot Savant. Approach by walking up the slabs on the north side of the road before Tunnel Two (like you're walking to Twitch, 5.12d). Continue up slabs until it's possible to walk left to the base of the cliff.


Protection 

9 quickdraws.



Photos of Head Up Dirty Slideshow Add Photo
Topo of Head Up Dirty.
BETA PHOTO: Topo of Head Up Dirty.
Head Up Dirty. <br />Photo taken by Adam Peters.
Head Up Dirty.
Photo taken by Adam Peters.
Comments on Head Up Dirty Add Comment
Show which comments
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Sep 21, 2011

Nice work, Matt, can't wait to try it....

By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Oct 4, 2011

Already quite clean despite being so new (much more so than Ghetto Activity). Route climbs really well... fun moves through the roof! Thanks for the effort on some new routes, Matt.

By mlloyd
From: denver
Oct 5, 2011

I appreciate the feedback, Steve, nice to get positive words on MP once and a while.

By Cassidy Hill
Oct 26, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

A nice addition to the canyon and a reason to visit this seldom climbed at crag. Depending on your strengths, the techy bottom half may seem cruxier than the roof. Thanks, Matt.

By doze
From: Denver, CO
Sep 6, 2012

Lower part felt much harder than the roof to me. Roof is wild and exciting nevertheless.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Oct 17, 2012

This seems pretty hard unless you are probably 6' or taller.

By Ben Collett
Apr 18, 2014

If one wants, a lower start is available off of the nice, big, jug rail that forms the first foot for the regular start. This adds some difficulty to the route. "Low Down Dirty?"