Head Over Squeals
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This is the farthest route to the right on the "Scoop Wall". The first bolt is about 25 feet off the ground. Climb to the bolt using gear for pro if you desire. Up through interesting and varied terrain past several bolts. I remember wanting a small Alien for one of the lower cruxes. I do not know what the intent of the first ascent was but where the bolts ended I climbed on trad gear through an excellent right facing roof flake thingy. This could be as hard as 10a but protects really well with a #1 Friend. Continue on up past this and belay at a nice tree with a great veiw of the beautiful canyon. Walk off easiler to the climbers right. I really liked this route as it has a very old school feel to it and the rock is friendly, rough, beautiful granite.
[Eds. Note, this route was originally entered in this database as English Body. Given the below comment, the name was changed to possibly the original name.]
This route has about 5 or 6 bolts but I brought a rack and used several pieces from small to mid-range. [Eds. This apparently was led with traditional protection without the bolts.]
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