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BETA PHOTO: Upper part of Head Games. Route approximate. The c...
This is a long and enjoyable single pitch mixed sport/trad line that I highly recommend if you're in the area and have trad gear along. It pairs very nicely with nearby Chickenhead
which is also a quality 5.8 trad route.
The first half of the climb follows a friendly bolt line up an otherwise unprotectable slab on the lower part of the wall. A short, cruxy section of 5.8 slab is encountered down low, and then it's a rather easy romp to a bolted anchor. Don't stop here. You'll use this anchor to get down.
At this point, the character of the climb begins to change and it's time to put on your trad hat. Throw some gear in a vertical crack and work your way up to a huge roof. Traverse left under the roof with excellent protection. Near the left end of the roof, clip a bolt and pull over the roof (which is fairly small at this point). Follow a straightforward dihedral to the top anchor.
This route is on the right side of the Headstone and starts about 15 feet right of Remote Control
. Look for several rather closely spaced bolts on a slab directly under a big, left-facing dihedral.
To descend, rappel the route. There is a bolted rappel station at the top and another one halfway down. The descent will require TWO rappels unless you have two ropes.
This is a mixed climb. 8 bolts plus standard rack of nuts and cams, possibly with a few extra cams in the 0.3-ish ballpark. A #4 cam is nice to have, but you could probably do without.
BETA PHOTO: Start of Head Games.
Not the best picture, but Kevin near the top.
By Jay Eggleston
Nov 18, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I brought multiple 0.3 and 0.4 cams and did not place any of them. I saw places they would go, but trying to conserve them, I did not use them. I placed 4 or 5 nuts and a #2 Camalot. I brought a #4 but did not use it.