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Ruckman Cave
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Unsorted Routes:

Head Full of Lead 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Gray Ringsby
Page Views: 1,067
Submitted By: chad wolak on Jun 6, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Dan power underclinging Head Full of Lead - 5.12a.

Description 

This route is a forgotten classic and, although not as good as other routes in the cave proper, it's a hell of a lot fun.

Head Full of Lead is located on the left side of the Ruckman Cave proper in between Choss Family and Street Knowledge. Interesting and powerful underclings and no good rest make this route a fun challenge. A difficult move guards the anchors and potential for a nasty fall exists...TAKE CARE near the chains.

Protection 

4 bolts plus anchors (Western Sloper mentions 5 bolts, but the anchors have been lowered and the 5th bolt removed).


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By Tod Anderson
Jun 22, 2004

Unless all the bolts have been replaced on this climb they should be considered suspect. One pulled on me a few years back and it appeared that the bolt was never tightened. I doubt the first ascentionist knew what they were doing.
By Peggy Sayer
Jun 22, 2005
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The anchors were [replaced] and the final bolt as well in spring 2004. The anchors are now lower and much easier to clip if placing the draws.