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Fox Tower
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Fox Trot 
Head Fox 

Head Fox 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Head and company
Season: Fall thru Spring
Page Views: 220
Submitted By: Anonymous Climber on Oct 15, 2007
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Some areas require a guide.


Climb up left of the cleft in the middle of the Fox Tower formation (left of hueco field that forms Fox Trot route), folling the crack initially and moving up past ten bolts to a two bolt anchor 150 feet up. Excellent route on pretty good edges with some thought-provoking moves between bolts.


10 bolts, 2-bolt anchor. Bring two ropes for the 150' rappel. The guide suggests that some might want some misc. pro to supplement the bolts.


Left of cleft/crack in the middle of the formation. Start in the crack, then move left out to first bolt about 25' up.

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By Russ Walling
Oct 16, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Slick rock to start, sorta run out if 12ft between bolts is runout to you, and quasi relentless. Plenty of good moves all stacked up on top of each other make this fingery in places beast a classic. Warm up on the Fox Trot and then give this one a go. Supplemental pro? hmmm.... I don't even recall where you would want to place it.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 17, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R

The line following the first 3 bolts is slick and leaves you thinking you may have bitten off more than you can chew. If you've been playing around on large features for a few days the thin edges this route has may be a surprise.

Hang in there and you'll be pleasantly rewarded with a fun and sustained route.


By Anthony Stout
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R

This route was awesome IMO. Not sure where you might add any supplemental gear aside from the crack at the beginning. The first few moves present with an interesting stemming problem but all that is needed is a good spotter. After that there are HUGE holds to the first bolt. I could not decide if I liked this or Malice In Bucketland better, both were beautiful routes! This one felt a little more difficult, with smaller edges on it than that one though. Also the movement is less obvious, and the route is a bit more run out. Other than that, they are both really great routes for the grade!

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Feb 7, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I couldn't find any gear worth placing for back-up. Originally led on two bolts! (Rock & Ice #36)