|The Head Wall
Good stemming moves lead to a ledge. Upon gaining access to the ledge, there is a nice 15-20 foot runout to the next bolt. Bring your 'nads or some gear to protect the run. Afterwards, outstanding face climbing on fun edges occurs. You may stop at the first set or continue on to the top of Head Wall. If you continue on, bring more draws and tie a knot in your rope.
The book says its 100 feet to the top, but my 60m was at its ends at the first set.
This is the route to the immediate right of Classic Head.
11-12 draws, plus two bolt anchors, and possible 1-1.5 inch cam.
|By Tom Hanson|
Oct 4, 2001
...[named] after a Jeff Beck tune.... The other two routes on this wall: Any Head is Good Head & Classic Head were also established at that time by the same co-conspirators.
Sep 24, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
This definitely felt like the hardest route on the wall. The opening section is harder than it looks. It sort of draws you into weird body positions. The slab is ... harder than it looks also, particularly getting started on it. Makes a good warmup for the area.