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 ADVANCED
The Case Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
DIC 
Easy Case 
Hard Case 
Head Case 
Just in Case 
Space Case 
Territorial Imperative 

Head Case 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Todd Swain, Donette Swain, George Reid, and Catriona Reid, 1994
Page Views: 725
Submitted By: Matt Faust on Nov 4, 2004
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The Head Case face

Description 

This route is located in the middle of the Case Face and climbs through the white lower half of the cliff up into dark varnish. Mostly good face climbing, protected by nuts and cams in the varnish where possible, bolts where not. The beginning is a little weird, with awkward moves to get to the first bolt. Since the protection looked pretty marginal from the ground, we toproped this climb by first climbing Space Case, then doing a second pitch up and right to get to the Head Case anchors. Once we got on the face, protection opportunities were more obvious.


Protection 

Several bolts and small to medium gear.



Photos of Head Case Slideshow Add Photo
Right at the crux on Head Case
Right at the crux on Head Case
Jared TR'ing Head Case
Jared TR'ing Head Case
Upper section of Head Case with some really fun climbing!
Upper section of Head Case with some really fun cl...
Andy Hansen through the crux into the upper section of Head Case. Photo: Gina Matranga.
Andy Hansen through the crux into the upper sectio...
Comments on Head Case Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 12, 2006

The route has four bolts, but is well protected by slinging a horn/plate between the 2nd and 3rd bolts and then a 0.3 Camalot or Green Alien in a horizontal above the last bolt.

By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 24, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Surprisingly good/fun route; crux is right after clipping the first bolt and is a little tough for 5.8 IMO; but overall its probably a good grade for this fun route.

By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Nov 9, 2008

Very nice climb, 4 bolts, nice face climbing 80 ft. Sandstone balls like on "lotta Balls" Probably 5.8+. The first 25 ft is heady. Shut anchor.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jan 31, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

It is not unreasonable to lead this on only bolts. Good movement, great holds and quality stone.

By Edward Pyune
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 26, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

No need for extra protection. The shuts are a little rusted by the bolt and the right one is a little loose, but felt fairly solid. I supplemented with a small nut up and to the left of the anchors.