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He was an aficionado of not only trains, but of the entire railway system S 
salient rock shape of the locomotive, The T 

He was an aficionado of not only trains, but of the entire railway system 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Derek Pearson & Jon Nelson, Sept 10, 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 573
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on Sep 18, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Derek Pearson just below the final bulge.

Description 

Start up the large flake on the left edge of the wall. The technical crux, at about 10b, is doing the moves just off the ledge, about 30-feet up (just past bolt 2). (These are the only moves on small holds -- the rest of the route is a jug-fest.) Follow the juggy rail up and right. One can go over the first bulge directly or by moving left (both about 10a). The pumpy crux is at the lip, getting over the overhanging bulge. The route continues about 30 feet on the slab above.

The anchor is 3 3/8" bolts with chains. One can break the pitch into two by belaying at the chains on the first ledge.


Location 

Starts on the far left edge of the dark-rock region, in front of the big maple tree. Look for the obvious flake, which may have a fixed runner on top.


Protection 

13 bolts, but bring a small camming unit (~1/2 to 3/4") or small brass nuts to protect some 5.7 to 5.8 moves on the upper slab. One can also clip a runner or two getting to the ledge about 30-feet up.



Photos of He was an aficionado of not only trains, but of the entire railway system Slideshow Add Photo
Moving directly over the first bulge (~10a).
Moving directly over the first bulge (~10a).
Derek Pearson doing the pumpy crux over the top bulge. (Just after unclipping a bolt.)
Derek Pearson doing the pumpy crux over the top bu...
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By michal
From: Everett WA
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Got on it, not typical index climbing as for there are many positive huge holds. Its good in my opinion not 11a more like 10c. Took only draws so there was a little run out getting to the last bolt. To protect this 00 tcu would work. Nice work on the route.

By derekpearson
Jul 5, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I did this route yesterday , it's almost been a year since I climbed it . Awesome climb , be careful climbing the flake at the start .

By Eric Hirst
Jun 9, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Surprisingly fun, in spite of the cruft and the unfortunate approach pitch. The marginal rock on this wall is uncharacteristic of Index, but the moves are still a hoot. A 70m rope wasn't quite long enough to reach the ground in a single rap. We set directionals on the rappel to reach the mid-station.