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Start up a lieback crack just down and left of Sideshow. This excellent climb is long and sustained. Which section is the crux will likely depend on your strengths and weaknesses. Either bring a tagline to rap to the ground or make a single rope rappel over to a ledge on the right from where you can scramble down.
Near the right side of the Gong Show, the climb finishes under the large roof.
14 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Optional gear placements (small cams) if you want, but those sections are easy and placing gear would add rope drag.
|By J. Albers|
Jul 1, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
The gear on this one refers to a 0.75 Camalot. You can place it behind the chalked up block about halfway up the route. Without this piece, you have to make some reachy moves to clip the next bolt and you are looking at kind of an ugly fall because you are quite a ways above the last bolt (if I recall correctly, you would fall, hit a ledge, bounce off the ledge, and then continue falling until the bolt just below the ledge catches you). I don't usually place the gear though because although the block sounds solid, it looks suspect. Just be careful and it is not so bad. Excellent route.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 25, 2010
A 70 m rope easily reaches the ground if you lower down to the start of Sideshow.